zipsglacier

joined 2 years ago
[–] zipsglacier@lemmy.world 2 points 15 hours ago (1 children)

Thanks! I wondered about the glue stick trick, but I think you're right that a taper would be better. I have to wonder why he didn't say that, but maybe he was tight on time or some other thing.

[–] zipsglacier@lemmy.world 2 points 19 hours ago (3 children)

The part at the end about the fins is good, but too quick. He says put a gap under the fins, and that makes sense, but then how do they print? Are they small enough that they can basically just break away? I've heard ironing is the key to stacked, separable prints (like miltiboard grids). I'd that (a) necessary, (b) unnecessary but helpful, or (c) irrelevant for these fins?

P.s. while I was internet searching to try to understand this, I found a cute video of his from 3 years ago where he is explaining the same concept, but with less polish and less good vtuber equipment. Still neat, and neat to see how he has and hasn't changed over time.

[–] zipsglacier@lemmy.world 2 points 2 days ago

Lol, I bet you can figure it out.

[–] zipsglacier@lemmy.world 14 points 2 days ago (2 children)

Shout out to OP for recognizing the struggle and respecting the rule (I thought this was a 196 post at first!)

Men will lurk for years without ever commenting in some communities, and then (ITT) lose their minds when confronted with the possibility of a community they are welcome to read, but asked not to comment. Bros, you were already doing that!! Yes, it's hard, that's what this post is about. But you can do it!!

[–] zipsglacier@lemmy.world 5 points 2 days ago

Lol, I wasn't going to chime in to this train wreck, but this is awesome. Hi Langara! I hope you learn what not to do here. Also worth noting: it's easy, and good, to see how stupid the olds can be. It's harder, by a lot, to see which new things are stupid in a new way (or newly packaged way). Good luck.

[–] zipsglacier@lemmy.world 3 points 5 days ago

Like others have already said, this article is a good collection of tricks/principles/examples. There are also lots of links out to other resources that cover the various items in more detail.

But I haven't seen anyone mention how awesome that head image is! Take a closer look if you didn't at first. I'd love to see an animation that wipes from design to completed piece.

[–] zipsglacier@lemmy.world 15 points 5 days ago

None of the sites are completely free from enshittification, but printables seems the least bad. Prusa has a better track record with supporting an open community, at least for now. Bambu+makerworld is an example of a company trying to close as much as possible to lock people in. Now I can't download without a login? No thanks.

[–] zipsglacier@lemmy.world 1 points 6 days ago

Yeah, there's probably all kinds of clever ways to use folding for subdividers or something. If you come up with something to post, tag me so I can check it out!

[–] zipsglacier@lemmy.world 2 points 6 days ago (1 children)

Yeah! I know people make full organizer models for it, but mine has grown into its own thing over time, as I add more parts for the new expansions.

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submitted 6 days ago* (last edited 6 days ago) by zipsglacier@lemmy.world to c/3dprinting@lemmy.world
 

I've been experimenting with foldable 3d prints for tall thin walls in some game organizers. (Bigger pictures below.) The principle here is sort of similar to a living hinge, but not designed to flex too many times. Just fold once and be a reasonably stable structure.

Here are some individual pictures of the designs I've made, for corner support of some game organizers. Below, I have explanation and the design/dimensions that I use.


Overview

I haven't seen this type of design too often before, so I thought I would share what design and dimensions worked for me. Here is an overview:

  1. I design what I call the Wall as an outline, with some cutouts to reduce material. This is the part that prints flat and will fold up.

  2. I apply a chamfer to all edges, to help with removal from the build plate.

  3. I make a Y-Profile for the fold line grooves. The profile is vaguely Y-shaped, with a short rectangular base and an angled top. (Picture below; the Y-profile is labeled "cut out groove" there.)

  4. I use the Y-profile to cut away material from the wall to make those grooves.

  5. I print these in PLA (the pictures are matte PLA, because that's what I had). I guess PETG might be more sturdy, but honestly the PLA was so good that I haven't bothered with PETG.

Here is a picture, which I'll explain below.


Design Details

The top of this picture is an edge-on view of the wall (green horizontal lines) and the Y-shaped profile (labeled "cut out groove"). I use the following dimensions:

  • wall thickness: 1.5mm
  • wall chamfer (not pictured): .5mm
  • Y-profile base height (a): 0.3mm
  • thickness remaining below Y-profile (b): 0.4mm
  • angle of Y-profile sides: 40 degrees from horizontal (45 didn't fold as well)
  • Y-profile base width: (pi/2) x a x 1.1 (=.52mm with other dimensions above)

That last measurement, the width of the Y-profile base, is what the bottom part of the picture is about. The key idea is that width is going to be, roughly, 1/4 the circumference of a circle with radius a. So, I computed that amount, and multiplied by 1.1 to give 10% extra width.

With these dimensions, the part that folds is 0.4mm thick (dimension b in the pictures), then there is a 0.3mm clearance (dimension a), and the two arms of the "Y" fold together. In my first trials I used 45 degrees for the Y arms, but found that I got a better fold making them a little wider (so, lowering the angle from horizontal, to 40 degrees). This basically gives a little extra tolerance for variations in the physical print.


Conclusion

I hope this helps someone! I think it's a neat technique, and I'm a little surprised that I haven't seen it used anywhere else. I've seen various designs for living hinges, which are roughly the same principle, but designed to flex repeatedly. Searching around, I found one foldable cube on thingiverse. But otherwise I haven't found any models using this kind of design.

[–] zipsglacier@lemmy.world 2 points 1 week ago

Yeah, no idea; does it take two bars to make, and they somehow grabbed different ones?

[–] zipsglacier@lemmy.world 2 points 1 week ago (2 children)

Tin and silver rollers; nice! A great SnAg.

[–] zipsglacier@lemmy.world 26 points 1 week ago (3 children)

Petition to rename this sub silent_doors_club

 

The plastic part inside this latch broke, and I wanted to print a replacement. I was genuinely surprised at how straightforward it was!! This is my first draft: it fit and worked fine! I made a second version with a few cutaways around the corners, and that was the final draft. (I forgot to take a picture of that one.)

There are lots of awkward overhangs, and I was having a hard time figuring out how it could be printed (a) in a good orientation for the stresses and (b) without supports. Then I remembered: we can just use supports!! I usually try to design so that they aren't needed, so I almost never use them. But wow they made this easy.

 

For anyone interested in checking this game out, but daunted by the very large card pool, this article is pretty good. The goal is to give people suggestions without triggering FOMO over stuff that's out of print or way too expensive.

I think it does a good job. Maybe too good: there is still a big wall of text. The core recommendations, which are accompanied by a lot of additional explanation and alternatives, are the following.

  1. There is not a single [expansion] for this game that you NEED to enjoy what is available. Even if you never lay your hands on [some particular expansions], you will still be able to have a great experience. Your cardpool will be excellent and you will be able to play great campaigns.

  2. You do need a Revised Core Set; the box labeled FFGAHC60, from 2021. That box has everything you need to play the game and see if it's for you. Many of the cards in that box are still regularly used by experienced players---the core set is very good.

  3. First investigator expansions: Edge of the Earth or Drowned City, or [other discussion].

  4. First campaign expansions: Drowned City or Innsmouth Conspiracy, or [other discussion].

  5. Is this game for you!? This is a good question, and there is some discussion of it at the end of the article.

 

So, our baking is done, we put those staples on the list, and we'll get them with our weekly shopping.

 

I've been waiting until the alpha release to try cosmic, so I haven't paid much attention to instructions for installing it alongside my current pop os 22.04. Now that the alpha is out, I see all instructions pointing to download and install the 24.04 alpha iso. But, that's a big hassle! Is there a way I can try the cosmic alpha along side my current install?

 

Not looking for and dadvice here; more of a dadvent. Just had a sweet and apparently normal conversation with my 9yo about stuff going on in their world. Everything is fine; I recognize it as a normal and healthy processing of some shit that has gone down in our family.

I know it's good to listen while they process this stuff, but damn. They way kids can be so brutally straightforward about how fucked up it is. And, it's just what they (we all) have to deal with, and they are doing it.

We had a little talk over dinner and now they're doing their usual evening chill, and I'm rocked! So, like I said, I needed to vent a little. I'm not freaking out!!

(P.s. No, this isn't about whatever truly horrific situation you might imagine. It's relatively mild, but still consequential for our family, and something we'll get through as well as anyone can.)

 

My teenage son wants to try a new distro for gaming. Our family has been using pop os for years, but he wants to try something new. The main three I see are

  • nobara (fedora based)
  • garuda (arch based)
  • drauger (ubuntu based)

The machine he's using is a 2018 Intel nuc. It has a strong processor (core i7) but no discrete graphics. I can't tell which (if any) of the distros above would be better or worse for his case.

Reading around, it seems like Garuda might be slightly more fiddly. And, Drauger I only saw mentioned in a couple of articles, but not on this forum. Are these impressions correct? Do you have any other advice for us?!

 

I press Super and type "recent " to open some documents. But after reorganizing where some of them are stored, I now see entries for both the new and old locations. Currently the old ones are at the top of the list, because I've used them more often. Choosing those entries doesn't do anything, because the paths don't point to those files anymore. How can I remove the old entries from the list?

 

I haven't painted a lot, but I really enjoy doing it, and I love how great it looks even for my amateur level of skill.

The model is 3d printed, and it's fun that some of the printing flaws kind of look like wood grain. The model is from here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4327948

 

Stackoverflow, and the rest of the SE network, explicitly says that all user-generated content is licensed under CC-BY-SA. (link here). So, while SE has the right to do whatever they want with user content, they have to attribute the users who made it, and they have to keep the same or similar open license on the content. I know users can't really fight a big company on equal footing, but an explicit license like that is an implicit commitment to respecting, at least to some degree, users' ownership of their content.

On the other hand, Reddit's user agreement includes this: "...you irrevocably waive any claims and assertions of moral rights or attribution with respect to Your Content...." So, reddit asserts the right to use user content however it likes, with no rights to the users who generate it.

Recent events make me much more interested in knowing how the content I generate will be licensed. I know a cc license on Reddit content wouldn't change most of what makes the recent decisions so terrible, but it would give some standing to the people upset with how reddit plans to use what they've contributed.

I looked a bit, but didn't see an explicit statement about how the content in this server (lemmy.world) is licensed. (That's not a criticism; I think the admins have been busy with a few other things, and I really appreciate it!! I'm asking about this because I'm hoping to see more and more here.)

 

If only there was some way I could have known to try this sooner! /s

Story: I wanted to try printing with petg, since I've read how much easier it is. But with a new roll I just had a really hard time. Lots of stringing, poor adhesion, and it just seemed like no amount of my usual fiddling would really make it better.

Somewhere I read that even new filament can benefit from drying, because maybe it wasn't stored in the best way, or maybe it's older than you think. I also read about putting the roll on the print bed, heating it up and covering it for a long time, since I don't have a filament dryer. I did that for about half a day, and then sealed the roll in a ziptop bag with a silica packet because I needed a break from it. A week later and, it seems much better!?

Either the drying, the break, or something else seems to have helped a lot! Happy printing everyone.

 

Last time I looked for how to do this, hydrapaper seemed to be the best option. Lately though I get a warning every time flatpak updates.

Info: runtime org.gnome.Platform branch 42 is end-of-life, with reason:
   The GNOME 42 runtime is no longer supported as of March 21, 2023. Please ask your application developer to migrate to a supported platform.
Info: applications using this runtime:
   org.gabmus.hydrapaper

Is there something else people are now using? Or are they staying with hydrapaper (it seems to still work fine)?

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