tsl

joined 2 years ago
[–] tsl@lemmy.stefanoprenna.com 4 points 2 days ago

Having a lot of fun with Tiny Tina's Wonderlands! Works very well on the Deck!

[–] tsl@lemmy.stefanoprenna.com 3 points 2 months ago

I had a Raspberry Pi2 in my car for a few years. The weather here in Barcelona is quite hot during summer, but even if it was left in the car under the sun, it always worked well.

I used it with the official Touch display, but added some physical buttons for navigation and playback as a touchscreen is never as good as real buttons, and anyway after some time, the touch function did stopped working well.

I used Kodi to play media, with a low resolution, "made for car" theme and using an addon to read the gpio buttons plus another one to make Kodi read only. The car adapter I used to supply power did not always trigger a clean shutdown, but having Kodi and most of the OS read only (i. e. no logs), I literally used the same SD card for years without any issue.

I could have used a gps as well (and launched its app from Kodi), but I got gifted a gps so used that.

Now I don't need this as I changed car, but I still use occasionally the RPi2 with its screen as no matter what, they still work fine :)

Ultimately, I wanted to mention that more powerful boards will require even more watts and more stable power, so it might just be easier with an old board.

[–] tsl@lemmy.stefanoprenna.com 3 points 3 months ago (1 children)

Did you stutter?

[–] tsl@lemmy.stefanoprenna.com 3 points 7 months ago (1 children)

Less releases with more testing. I normally wait some time before upgrading (no matter the application) as I prefer stability over extra/new features that I may use or not.

[–] tsl@lemmy.stefanoprenna.com 2 points 7 months ago

Thank you for sharing, I just answered!

[–] tsl@lemmy.stefanoprenna.com 3 points 10 months ago (1 children)

I would say around 15 years ago, it was Windows XP

[–] tsl@lemmy.stefanoprenna.com 3 points 10 months ago (3 children)

But it did MOST of the times...

[–] tsl@lemmy.stefanoprenna.com 4 points 10 months ago

Oh, I don't know how it is nowadays, I have switched to Linux since many years ago...

[–] tsl@lemmy.stefanoprenna.com 37 points 10 months ago (7 children)

Very often sfc /scannow will ask for an installation media, which, in a corporate environment, means sending the machine to onsite support for either "fixing" or "reimaging". It's basically the command you should try first if you don't want to help someone fixing the issue. "See? There is something wrong with your installation, you should fix that before doing anything else..."

I used that trick a few times myself to get rid of poorly behaving people.

[–] tsl@lemmy.stefanoprenna.com 9 points 1 year ago (1 children)

I would recommend to pay a visit to Wipeout Phantom Edition.

It's an enhanced PC port that uses the original assets from the Playstation CD and I had a lot of fun with it on my deck a few months ago...

[–] tsl@lemmy.stefanoprenna.com 2 points 1 year ago

No, I didn't. But I suspect that there might be some unwanted bridge somewhere which is directing electricity where is shouldn't and lowering the overall voltage in that part of the circuit.

I had no time yet, but I was thinking to remove the components of that part of the circuit and solder them onto an external board one by one. If I reach a point where the circuit starts working, I should then see if the last component moved was shorted with another one.

It will take a while, but I'd like to keep searching for the answer until it's found :)

[–] tsl@lemmy.stefanoprenna.com 3 points 1 year ago

I use regularly Lutris, Bottles, ScummVM, Dosbox-X or EmulationStation. So I can play from GOG, Epic, Itch.Io or plain old games (Dos) / emulated.

I do have many titles on Steam as well and generally I don't look too much at whether something is verified or platinum on ProtonDB, I just avoid titles from companies like Activision, EA, Ubisoft and generally all works very easily or easy enough!

 

Hello fellow friends of Console Repair!

Today I'd like to ask for some ideas about an old Game Gear (the first one I ever recapped) as it is showing the "red light for one second and off" issue.

Basically, as this was my first attempt (and a successful one) at recovering a Game Gear, I knew I did not clean the board too well or properly removed solder before changing caps, so when I saw the issue, I removed all the caps, cleaned the board and changed the caps again for good measure. Still, the issue is still there.

So here is my fruit of my troubleshooting afterwards:

  1. the voltages from the power board are correct (I tested as well with the working power board of another VA0 I have around, no change). And all the capacitors are of the correct value and polarity.

  2. the issue seems related to the VBat circuit as I observed that:

  • R50 receives around 13V from the power board, which seems the rough amount expected when powering from the wall adapter.
  • R50 ends with just 0.90V - however, removing the resistor (it's a 9.1K one), and testing with a multimeter, provides 9.01K, which is good enough, and definitely not something that would kill the voltage that much
  • as we get 0.90V from R50, the other resistors just reduce the voltage even more. I removed R51 and R52 and they both tested well on the multimeter (2.98K for the 3K one and 1.09K for the 1.1K one).
  1. I thought that the diode D4 might be faulty and replaced it, but in reality it seems it was just dirt, anyway, it's a new one now...

  2. VRef at the power board outputs 1.26, but it arrives to the ASIC as 0.30V.

  3. Finally, as part of the troubleshooting, I noticed that removing C49, the system works fine... After the removal of C49 all the voltages that were too low becomes higher, in line with the ones of the other working Game Gear.

So here my doubts that I hope someone might help me clarify:

  1. What could affect VRef as in principle is directly connected from the power board to the ASIC? Following the schematics here, I don't see anything that should interact with the circuit, modify the current. Still, the removal of C49 normalizes the voltage to around 1.25V...

  2. what could be the reason why the voltage drops when the capacitor C49 is installed?

I think it might be useful to share a couple of pictures of the relevant parts of the board, but I can share more, if needed.

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