the16bitgamer

joined 2 years ago
[–] the16bitgamer@programming.dev 1 points 20 hours ago

Fantastic game soundtracks are the ones which I actually go out of my way to acquire. Chrono Trigger, PixelJunkMonsters Deluxe, SimCity 3000, and Yooka-Laylee and the Impossible Lair.

[–] the16bitgamer@programming.dev 2 points 21 hours ago (1 children)

In my view Physical games are digital game in containers that we've yet to figure out to open. Digital games almost always have a DRM on top of it, and rarely can be used outside of their designated environment. My GameBoy, and PSP games have had a very long shelf life thanks to emulation and the various methods to back them up.

Agreed on the "whole game needs to be on disc". Was the reason I never bought Reignited Trilogy on Switch physically. No point since it was basically a digital game anyways.

I have a bit more nuances on that. Some games are Steam or console only, so what I do there is get them deeeply discounted so that if I was to loose them the hit isn't much. Otherwise GOG like digital services, or physical all the way.

The other way I look at it is for systems like the Switch or 3DS, where once it's cracked open. The game has a very high chance at being emulated easily with wider compatibility than it would otherwise.

 

Ran across this in a discussion about Nintendo's Virtual Game Cards and Key Cards.

For myself it's

Physical > Perpetual Digital (GOG) > Key Cards (Switch 2) > DRM Digital (Steam/PS3/Xbox 360) > Account DRM Digital (PS4/Switch/Xbox One) > System Locked Digital (3DS/Wii U) > GamePass > Streaming Games (Amazon Luna/Stadia)

For some context.

While Key Cards are digital they are not tied to hardware which means so long as the servers are still running the game can be downloaded and played... presuming no additional authentication is required.

DRM Digital is bellow that since services like Epic Games, and Steam still require re-authentication from time to time. Though Steam is getting better thanks to the Steam Deck.

GamePass is low because it is the same as Game Rental. You don't own the game. Good to try never to own.

On that note, physical games with download codes inside don't even get a place on my list. Got tricked into buying Patapon 2 this way and I always read the games fine print ever since.

I’m doing my part

Love to see purple lamp doing so well especially for making these games for so cheap.

Battle for Bikini Bottom Rehydrated was a good game though only on pair with the original.

Cosmic Shake was their first outing on their own and while it had issues. They nailed it and the game even had its own unique charm. (Even if I feel old playing it)

I am looking forward to this game. Though think it’s funny they found a way to keep balloon Patrick.

I personally prefer DX. The GB printer bonus gives the game such a personality which is sadly missing.

If it was the same price I’d say pick the one you wanna play, but since it’s more expensive it’s not doing anything which makes it worth more.

At MSRP it’s price is crazy

LOL, actual taken from the parking lot as I was heading out.

 

Went to Wonderland yesterday and got this fantastic sunset shot of Leviathan. Wanted to share.

Yup, has a grapple point for it

[–] the16bitgamer@programming.dev 3 points 1 week ago (3 children)

I love the original and it still inches this one out. With that said, try the original again. Since if you like it and want more you have the oracle games to play

[–] the16bitgamer@programming.dev 6 points 1 week ago (1 children)

First 2 dungeons are a slog. Get a fairy bottle and cream and it’s slow going. But it levels the playing field

 

With all secret shells, hearts containers and 0 deaths. Was a fun experience but a challenge I will not do again.

Was intending on playing links awakening again. But I happened to do so since I just got a switch lite and was trying out some games on it. Then I got sucked back in.

Such a classic game

 

There is still 10 days left. Even though the stretch goals were met, you can still sign.

If you haven't already and you live in the EU (they will check), you can sign here: https://www.stopkillinggames.com/

 

Got myself a PolyDryer and was very confused why it included bowden tubes. But then I had an idea. Why not just include a mount for the tubes on my setup and use it to guide my filament into the printer. Love how well it turned out.

https://www.printables.com/model/1354587-slim-filament-guide-for-prusa-mk4

 

Link for those who've yet to see it/sign the petition: https://www.stopkillinggames.com/

 

If you wanna print it yourself, the model is here: https://www.printables.com/model/1348194-4n-threaded-flat-head-screws-and-nuts-10-32-equiva

Design to be a drop in replacement for 10-32 screws with a much, much higher pitch. These screws are extremely easy to print, is reliable enough that it can hold some weight.

If you wanna print this yourself, you need to make sure that the screw is sideways, so if it breaks it's no on the layer lines.

Using them in my own prints which had metal screws and they are holding quiet well.

 

Designed in FreeCAD. I wanted to make a customizable screw and nut for my designs. Took me (on and off) weeks to get this working. But now that it does, I kind of want to test it to see how strong it is.

 

This has been my reliable Power Supply for my Battle Station from 2018 until now. Today when I turned on my RIG, she didn't post... or do anything.

Tested this PSU on my older Motherboard, it didn't post, and when I took my SO's PSW it did.

I think my RIG will be fine, it was working with my older PSW. But only time (and a new PSW) will tell.

 

So, from my testing while PEI is a fantastic build surface for 3D Printing. It's longevity is rather lacking. I then watched a video from Makers Muse about using G10 for my print bed https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g0PK4oXbJT8

Problem was (1) how to find G10 in Canada. The answer was look for it under it's industrial marketing name Garolite, which I was able to find. (2) How to make the bottom surface Matte and not ultra glossy. The answer was sanding it down, which had the added benefit of making parts stick better. (3) Sticking it to the print beds.

(3) is where I had a lot of problems. Since my only solution was to use paperclips. It worked on the mark 4 with a loss of 8mm around the print bed edge. However on the Mini it didn't work. 1) The original sheet was too thick, and 2) I needed the original Print Bed underneath for the bed leveling sensor to work.

However today I found my solution. Ripping off the PEI Sheet. It's just adheared with adhesive which once the PEI sheet is removed from, my Garolite sheet can be placed down on top of the original adhesive.

The results so far are fantastic. Garolite doesn't stick to PLA as good as PEI is when new and cleaned. However Garolite sheets lasts a heck of a lot longer and can be cleaned with heavy chemicals like Acetone without issues.

My Mini's bed isn't as levels as I thought it was. However it's nothing a bit of a disc sander can't fix :)

 

So a while back, I wanted to play Conkere bad furday. After doing some math I worked out that it was cheaper to get an Xbox One and Rare Replay, than the original game.

But now that I have Conkers, and a new box. I thought to myself. Hey isn’t this backwards compatible with 360. Which it was. But this lead me to another thought. Why deal with Ubisoft BS on PCs and their Client. Where older games force you to sign in to play them. When I could just have them on one box.

Which eventually lead me to acquiring this small collection. Total price is $155.88 CAD (before tax) and I know I overpaid for some of the later games. But it’s all on one system with no Uplay BS in my face.

Ac1 - $3

AC2 - $4

ACB - $8

ACRe - $8

AC3 - $12

ACB - $7

ACRo - $15

ACU - $10 ($7 more than i think should costs)

ACS - $13

ACC - $18 (shocked with this one)

ACOr - $20 (could’ve got it for $10 but got it on impulse)

ACOd - $20

ACV - $30 (again $10 over used)

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