If you can get a Solidgim 1TB (formerly Intel) for $60, dang that is a steal. https://www.newegg.com/solidigm-1tb-p41-plus/p/N82E16820318018
(I got a Corsair. It's okay, their best feature is that you can buy it direct. The worst feature is that if there's a firmware update, it's strictly through Windows. And most links to the Corsair Flash Tool go to a 404. Super. Competent.)
I find that the "click" of the trackpads is a pretty good tell whether it's really asleep or not.
On iOS you get to have the PWA, which is done by adding the site to the homescreen and launching that. Cohost has a really nice PWA presence, Lemmy is so-so.
Lutris is the way to go for adding your Amazon games.
The best thing is to just get a bluetooth keyboard. A Logitech K380 runs about 30 smackaroos. If they ever could be bothered to refresh the line for BTLE, that would be nice.
X-Com spends a lot of cycles recalculating a 99% success rate in order to hand you a miss.
The official dock has each of its ports fully fleshed out. These cheapie docks do things like connect the ethernet port to USB 2.0, use a "4K, but only at 30hz" HDMI spec, etc. You also get firmware updates from Valve.
I have Syncthing installed via pacman (since flatpaks cannot keep a daemon running). For every game that I care about, I find its save file, move it to a sync dir, and symlink it back to where it is expected. My savegame sync folder has folders for the many varied places that games like to hide their saves - "gamedir", local, locallow, "my documents", dot_config, etc. The most fun part is finding out where the appropriate proton prefix is.
If I was starting over again, there's a decky loader plugin that looks promising.
I've had computer crashes from a bad outlet, glitching the power going into a USB-C dock. I suppose that the complicated protocol between my laptop and the hub leaves a lot of room for bad state to spill into the PC.
I'm surprised that it's also a problem coming directly off of the power brick too. The power circuitry already has to deal with instantly cutting back to running from the battery at any time anyway, so what's the difference if it happens a millisecond after switching to wall power?
Well, it's only a 128. Those are cheap as dirt, it's about time you put in a bigger card.
Since X-Box controllers don't have a gyro, there is no nice way to slip the gyro data in when you're pretending to be one. And X-Box is the standard way for controllers to talk to PCs.