plantteacher

joined 2 years ago
 

Tea drinkers:

Most people use water kettles, either stovetop or electric. Some of us use realtime hot water dispensors, which are sometimes a function of coffee machines but in some rare cases they are dedicated stand-alone units.

Pros and cons to each:

stovetop water kettle on ⌁electric stove:
— slow to boil and brew
— wasteful/lossy, esp. if not induction (fuel→heat energy→steam→turbine→AC power→grid transmission→conversion back to heat energy)
— no temp control (green tea drinkers must wait for water to drop to 80°C)
+ BifL: never breaks down and generally outlives you

stovetop water kettle on 🔥gas stove:
— slow to boil and brew
+ energy efficient (fuel→transmission→heat energy); more heat loss on the stove than with electric, but still much less loss than all the electric stages
— …but all city gas pipelines are inherently leaky and unburnt gas is 25× worse for climate than CO₂ (OTOH, this leakage happens wheter you consume gas or not)
— no temp control (green tea drinkers must wait for water to drop to 80°C)
+ BifL: never breaks down and generally outlives you

⌁electric water kettle:
+ fast to boil (1m 20s to boil 25cl in my kitchen)
— …but slow to brew (brewing cannot start until all water is boiled)
— wasteful/lossy (same chain of energy losses as stovetop electric but less waste between the wall and the water)
± /some/ kettles have temp ”control”, but you have to watch it. Some exceptional units can be set to shutoff at 80°C.
+ BifL: never breaks down?

hot water dispensor (⌁electric):
— slow to boil (1m 50s according to YT video X2VdGK2t5vo)
+ …but overall faster to brew because the infusion begins instantly, and this is what matters. So what if it takes 30s longer for hot water if brewing is 1m 20s ahead of the kettle method?
— wasteful/lossy (same chain of energy losses as stovetop electric but has the least energy waste between the wall and the water as the water passes through a small heated pipe; OTOH some energy is used on the pump)
+ all appliances have true temp control, so green tea can be instantly infused with 80°C water automatically and without excessive heat
— non-BifL; it breaks! The usual electro appliance shitshow: complex design; no service manuals; no wiring diagrams; undocumented commands; booby-trapped; spring-loaded… self-destructs when disassembled; spare parts cost more than a new unit [if you can find them] because they bundle several parts together instead of selling individual components… the market seems to have abandoned the dedicated (water only) hot water dispensors

My question: after boiling water in an electric water kettle, I poured it into a glass with a meat thermometer, which went up to ~88°C. Where did the other 12 degrees go? Is it normal for water to fall so rapidly in temp, or is my thermometer dodgy?

 

A chemist told me rust does not spread. The top of my refrigerator gives me some doubt. It’s covered in these spots. The center of every spot is a small break in the paint, but the rust all around those spots is on top of the paint.

[–] plantteacher@mander.xyz 1 points 6 months ago

i don’t have a microwave oven but I appreciate the suggestion.

[–] plantteacher@mander.xyz 3 points 6 months ago* (last edited 6 months ago) (1 children)

I’m considering that as well and got some tips from here:

https://solar.lowtechmagazine.com/2024/12/how-to-build-an-electrically-heated-table/

So far my lower body is fine but in case it gets colder I have been keeping an eye out for excess waste roofing insulation in my area, which I would use for an under desk rig.

When you say your clothing becomes the chimney, that makes me wonder if I should surround myself in a insulated structure, unlike the link above where they seem to let heat escape around the legs.

[–] plantteacher@mander.xyz 1 points 6 months ago (2 children)

Thanks for the suggestion. That seems ideal because it’s directional. I could probably mount it to heat the keyboard area without adding any heat to the laptop. I’ll try to find a smaller 250 watt one so I can just heat the keyboard area.

[–] plantteacher@mander.xyz 1 points 6 months ago* (last edited 6 months ago)

For £3 that’s certainly worth trying. I guess I would not find those locally but they look simple enough to make.

[–] plantteacher@mander.xyz 5 points 6 months ago* (last edited 6 months ago) (8 children)

I just downloaded the manual and skimmed through pages of safety info. This was the only relevant statement about that:

“Limit the length of use and check the skin's reaction.”
“Overly prolonged radiation may lead to the skin being burned.”

Since they don’t mention a duration of exposure, I get the impression this is just pointing out the obvious for liability purposes in case someone does something foolish.

The 15 min seems to be more about protecting the device itself from over-heating. Which I suppose means it’s not well designed.. overly fragile. ~~And I guess the lack of fan would enable the device itself to take on lots of heat.~~ (edit: sorry, just read that it has a fan.. though it could be fragile nonetheless)

update: I also see that the bulb lasts 2000 hours. I’ve seen 250 watt bulbs claimed to last 6000 hours for like ~$20. So I guess this thing is garbage.

 

I’m trying to practice heating my body, not the whole room. The main problem is cold fingers when using a keyboard. Fingerless gloves are insufficient. So I figured a heat lamp would be ideal for this. And it turns out it’s been done.

I’m nixing that particular device though because the light is not red (thus not good for late night usage). It’s also only sold online and I will only buy local. The linked Beurer heat lamp is a “medical device” intended for humans. It looked suitable for my purpose -- then I saw there is a timer with max 15 min. What is that about? Is that for safety or for convenience?

I can imagine 15 min being enough for pain relief but my use case requires keeping my hands warm for hours. Pet stores sell 150 watt IR heat lamps for reptiles just as a standard bulb, thus would go into a desk lamp without a short time limit.

The linked device is 300 watt. That’s good but it has no intensity control. A normal light dimmer on the A/C line would solve that. But I wonder:

  • is long-term exposure to IR heat harmful?
  • if not, should I be avoiding medical devices and looking in pet shops or restaurant supply shops for IR heat lamps, to avoid the timers?
  • are there IR lamps for medical purposes that have longer timers?

Bit nutty.. or it could work if the mouse is not needed much→ http://i.stack.imgur.com/bbE42.jpg

[–] plantteacher@mander.xyz 2 points 6 months ago

There is a quite useful PDF version for printing. As I was saving the PDF, I noticed I had already saved that PDF before.

[–] plantteacher@mander.xyz 1 points 6 months ago* (last edited 6 months ago)

If you’re able to smell the products of the bacteria,

Your phrasing implies that the bacteria itself is odorless and that any new odor (other than what cooked turkey normally smells like) is entirely borne from bacteria output. Is that correct?

The food was sealed so odor builds. Upon opening the bag I get a full strength dose of the odor -- which is gone if I miss the opportunity to do the instant sniff. What plays tricks with my mind is the fact that sometimes an odor is just a stronger dose of the normal food odor. But as something rots there is a gradual subtle increase in new odors that makes it hard to know. I have always lived on the edge in this regard and consume borderline cases where it’s hard to tell. And I have always gotten away with it.. never had food poisoning.

In any case, the turkey odor clearly had some wrong odors so I opted to freeze it to use as rat bait the next time rats invade the house (along with a frozen raw beef steak where I was also too slow to consume). I now have enough rat bait to take on 100+ rats. And what I’ll probably find is that the rats are smart enough to avoid it.

[–] plantteacher@mander.xyz 1 points 7 months ago* (last edited 7 months ago)

I’d be quite happy to make soup with it. After re-roasting and boiling it, the foul odor is gone. I’m sure it would taste fine.

But some people seem convinced it cannot be salvaged by any process. If it has clostridium perfringens, even if I kill the bacteria in the recook, it would have an exotoxin that would survive any amount of cooking.

I really wish I could have easily tested or know from the odor whether clostridium perfringens was present. The odor could have come from a less dangerous bacteria but I guess it’d be a risky gamble.

[–] plantteacher@mander.xyz 1 points 7 months ago* (last edited 7 months ago) (1 children)

In a web search on how long cooked turkey lasts, the results were 3—4 days in the fridge in the first ~20 or so hits. Exceptionally, one deviant article said 5—7 days but I lost track of it.

I regret not vacuum sealing the meat, each piece individually. All was in a big zip lock. On day 1 and day 2 I opened it to pull out a piece, which was more opportunities for contamination. Some sites say there is only a 2 hour window of time to get it into the fridge after the initial cooking. In my case that was probably more like ~6 hours. So I guess I made plenty of mistakes.

[–] plantteacher@mander.xyz 0 points 7 months ago* (last edited 7 months ago) (2 children)

I don’t have bacteria phobia, but any sound science on food poisoning risks would be useful.

I just found this article which lists Clostridium perfringens as producing a harmful exotoxin. From there, it would be interesting to know if Clostridium perfringens likes cooked turkey (as opposed to just raw). But without a solid answer on that, I guess I will toss the turkey.

 

There seems to be widespread consensus that cooked turkey is only safe 3—4 days in the fridge. I’m on day 7 and it has the wrong odor. Can it be salvaged?

I am certain that I can kill all the bacteria. But really the interesting question is whether the type¹ of bacteria that likes cooked turkey produces heat-resistant toxins.

These articles say you can kill all the bacteria by cooking:

So they all imply it’s safe to re-cook, but they neglect the critical question about toxins. Any ideas?

① stellinamarfa: “One turkey can contain Salmonella, Clostridium perfringens, Campylobacter, and other germs”.

Are those the kinds of bacteria that produce poisons?

 

I bought some quite cheap avocados at a street market. Usually exceptionally cheap produce from my local street market is cheap for a reason, but I like to gamble. The minor flaw with these was they were small but had a huge pit, thus not much flesh. And the peels were really thick, stiff and brittle.

One of the avocados I used right after buying had proper color (lemon close to the pit and lime to green close to the peel). Normal, but slightly stiff flesh which implied a bit unripeness. I think the coldness slows or prevents the ripening process.

2—3 of them got increasingly brown, not green, close to the peel. Is that spoilage? I tasted a bit and it had a nice smokey flavor. I did not eat the really dark brown areas but I’m not sure what I’m dealing with. Is it oxidation? The peels are so thick I doubt it could be. Is it spoilage? I would certainly not eat any black areas or with the white mold.

But I have to say the brown smokey parts were quite tasty. So far I got away with it. After a search I see some folks cut avocados in half and smoke them in a smoker. The ones I got apparently achieved that naturally.

[–] plantteacher@mander.xyz 1 points 7 months ago* (last edited 7 months ago) (1 children)

It’s a good approach. But the aluminum I have is part of a whole. A rice cooker inner pot and a wok lid. Maybe I can find a replacement wok lid.

But what about knives? Dishwashers are said to dull knives. So far I only buy middle of the spectrum chef’s knives (~<$60) so abusing them isn’t a big deal. But that means I give up the benefit of a sharp knife that keeps a long-lasting edge. If I buy high-end (which likely runs a few hundred $), then it’s a bit wasteful to abuse it in the dishwasher. I suppose there are some things that I have to accept as high-maintenance. I wonder what pro chefs do.

 

I put an aluminum wok lid in the dishwasher and it came out with black marks on it. I’ve also seen other aluminum cookware come out with some kind of white powder specs on it.

So apparently aluminum is dishwasher unsafe. But obviously it’s not the water that’s the problem. It must be the detergent. So the question is, what can a lazy motherfucker like myself do? Why don’t I see aluminum-safe dishwasher detergents on the shelf?

Possibly related: Bailey’s creme liquor turns black underneath an aluminum cap. Is that a chemical reaction or spoilage, or something else?

 

When pouring a drop or two always goes over the edge onto the threads of the opening. I stored the bottle in the pantry for a while then later decided to start keeping it in the fridge (because I assume a chilled Baileys will be less dominant in a baby guiness so the coffee taste prevails more).

I noticed a nasty charcoal colored slime building up around the neck/mouth of the bottle. It’s a black bottle which hides that, but wiped it off with a napkin and saw the black color. Of course that also means that whatever that black stuff is, it mixes with whatever I am pouring unless I wipe it off every time before pouring.

WTF is it? Ingredients of standard Bailey’s are:

Irish whiskey, cream, sugar, and a blend of cocoa and vanilla flavors.

So I wonder if that is not spoilage, perhaps it’s just cocoa and vanilla additives. Or perhaps the aluminum cap reacting. I’ve noticed that dishwasher-unsafe aluminum turns black in the dishwasher. So maybe it’s the cap reacting with something in the Baileys?

[–] plantteacher@mander.xyz 2 points 7 months ago (1 children)

They spoiled:

  • red kale
  • fermented fruit juice
  • fermented strawberry jam
  • pumpkin jam
  • sourdough

but it’s unclear which led to possible benefits. With jams I would just scoop out the unexpected organisms and eat the rest. Maybe that’s not even necessary.

13
submitted 7 months ago* (last edited 7 months ago) by plantteacher@mander.xyz to c/biohacking@mander.xyz
 

Not quite sure if this qualifies for biohacking. I suppose it is since a syringe is not generally in itself biological.

Here is a more recent article (since BBC is talking about it today):

https://www.sciencealert.com/promising-new-malaria-vaccine-can-be-injected-by-mosquito-bite

 

Here is a more recent article (since BBC is talking about it today):

https://www.sciencealert.com/promising-new-malaria-vaccine-can-be-injected-by-mosquito-bite

I always thought no good comes from mosquitos, as they are a parasite that is wholly detrimental to other organisms. If that whole specie were to go extinct, I would celebrate. Now I have to reconsider.

I also have to wonder how vegans take this news. It’s a case of humans exploiting non-humans, but AFAICT it’s turning a wholly harmful non-respectable organism into a beneficial one.

 

It is a mystery how this guy died. The symptoms sound like an allergic reaction to me. He drank ayahuasca and apparently at the same time put frog toxins on an open wound.

The article says “frog” toxins and not toad. I wonder if the journalist got that wrong because the active ingredient in ayahuasca is DMT, and DMT also happens to be present in the Bufo Alvarious toad (not frog).

Would be nice to know if it really was toxins from a frog or from the Bufo Alvarious toad. The DMT toxins secreted from the toad are enough to kill a small animal like a dog (this is the defensive purpose of the toxins) but not enough to kill a human AFAIK. Though I have no idea if it can threaten a human to smear a large amount of it on a wound which I suppose would be comparable to injecting it.

Why would he have a cut on his oesophagus? Since ayahuasca is made using tree bark (which contains the DMT) I wonder if a splinter from the bark would do that.

 

The ACM.org website published the work of a team at Carnegie Mellon (#CMU) which was said to include source code. Then the code was omitted from the attached ZIP file, which only contained another copy of the paper. I asked the lead researcher (a prof) for the code and was ignored. Also asked the other researchers (apparently students), who also ignored the request. The code would have made it possible to reproduce the research and verify it. ACM ~~also ignored my request and~~ also neglected to fix the misinfo (the claim on the page that source code is available). Correction: ACM replied and tried to find the missing code but then just gave up.

It seems like this should taint the research in some way. Why don’t they want people reproducing the research? If the idea is that scientific research is “peer reviewed” for integrity, it seems like a façade if reviewers don’t have a voice. Or is there some kind of 3rd party who would call this out?

 

I acquired a ~16 year old laptop. The mat black plastic top (back of the LCD) is sticky. At first I thought the previous owner had stickers on the back that were removed. But that seems like a bad theory now. I rubbed it with a cloth and denatured alcohol and it only got slightly less sticky, but black residue came off on my hands and the cloth. This is apparently not adhesive.. it’s the plastic itself.

What’s my best move? I don’t suppose I can do anything to re-polymerize it. I don’t care about cosmetics.. I just don’t want it to be sticky and marking anything that touches it. One temptation is to put plastic film on it, like cling wrap. But that could just make a bigger mess.

view more: ‹ prev next ›