dingdongitsabear

joined 2 years ago
[–] dingdongitsabear@lemmy.ml 2 points 8 months ago

this is like month+ old info, at least mention that when posting. otherwise people assume it's an update.

[–] dingdongitsabear@lemmy.ml 4 points 8 months ago (1 children)

I deployed RocketChat on two different client installations (didn't check the licensing you're mentioning, I'll have to look into that) and I run a Prosody instance (XMPP) on my own; tried Matrix for a short while and ran away from that mess as fast as I could. anyhow, although the messengers work without any significant issues or downtime, the amount of flak I get from non-tech normies about the client apps is staggering.

the apps just aren't up to current UX standards. they're used to Twitter and iMessage and Telegram quality UX, and getting used to these PoC-quality apps - both on mobile and desktop - makes them "feel icky". I've had to intervene on a number of occasions when some of them transferred their business-related comms to other platforms because they just can't/won't get used to these apps.

[–] dingdongitsabear@lemmy.ml 8 points 8 months ago (1 children)

check out dell latitude 5285/5290 2-in-1. they are Surface Pro lookalikes with detachable keyboards, but with way service-friendlier interior - easy to open and SSD, comms, battery can be easily replaced, whereas RAM is soldered. the screens (12" 1920x1200 IPS mutlitouch) are gorgeous and the hardware isn't too shabby, kabylake (7xxxu) and kabylake-r (8xxxu), with standard UEFI BIOS so you can install Linux and have SecureBoot even. I can get them locally for $100-150, dependent on config and equipment (even less if they're without battery and keyboard).

 

anyone tried building android for their device on a sub-stellar PC? my phone doesn't have LOS21/A14 available so I tried the build-it-yourself route... dios mio, this takes eons!

I know it's a huge code base, but I had no concept of the size... I've left it syncing the repo like two hours ago and it's at 10%. no idea if it's gonna build at all and if it takes a day to download the thing and another one to build it (Ryzen 5) maybe I should go look for a $100 replacement that still gets LineageOS.

anyone been down this road?

[–] dingdongitsabear@lemmy.ml 4 points 8 months ago

how about adding the cutoff limit in the ui then? find myself shrinking and shrinking an image until it gets accepted and then promptly forgetting what the limit was.

[–] dingdongitsabear@lemmy.ml 2 points 8 months ago (2 children)

so, no need to resize images before upload on account of "image too large", lemmy will handle that?

[–] dingdongitsabear@lemmy.ml 1 points 8 months ago

there's no observable difference between a T420s, T480s and said T14 Gen1 AMD, they all lose battery while suspended. the battery drain is endemic to practically any modern laptop that's not a Macbook Pro running macOS; even the MBP running Fedora has the same drain.

it's easily solved though by implementing suspend-then-hibernate; the laptop sleeps normally and if not woken in, say, 60 minutes it hibernates to disk na shuts all power off - zero battery drain. once woken, it resumes from the disk super-fast, faster than cold-boot.

[–] dingdongitsabear@lemmy.ml 2 points 8 months ago (1 children)

can you share the server spec?

[–] dingdongitsabear@lemmy.ml 2 points 8 months ago (1 children)

regarding the pricy enclosures, there are vastly cheaper eGPU solutions especially if you're able to utilise the on-board M.2 or mini-PCI slot. if you don't move the laptop around, it's a viable option. this would be an example - not an endorsment. you'd need a $15 PSU to power the graphics and it works well in linux, with the hotpluggability being the primary issue; if you're willing to shutdown before attaching the eGPU, close to no issues.

you can run it as graphics card (i.e. utilize its display outputs) or just use the laptop's display with optionally switching between the onboard and discrete graphics.

[–] dingdongitsabear@lemmy.ml 2 points 8 months ago* (last edited 8 months ago)

I believe T480 is the last one that has two batteries; T49x and T14 def don't have any, possibly some P-series models, can't check now, but those are workstation-class machines with discrete graphics, so not in the same ballpark.

I don't know your use case, but the dual-battery isn't necessarily a good thing; apart from marginally improving battery autonomy (by like 20%), its primary use is you being able to hot-swap the second battery without shutting down the laptop. that (carrying around multiple fully charged battery packs) is a 20-year old paradigm that nobody uses nowadays.

my point being, going with a more modern platform nets you better battery autonomy, even with a single battery, and more computing power when running docked. case in point, T14s Gen6 (12-core Snapdragon EliteX) has but one battery but with 20+ hours of autonomy. that's obviously a vastly more expensive device, but even T14 Gen3 with 6xxx Ryzens can sip power while on battery and go full blast when docked.

edit: can't help you with the fingerprints as I routinely disable it on any laptop I have, but I seem to remember that all non-S versions mentioned ITT are good to go OOB.

[–] dingdongitsabear@lemmy.ml 2 points 8 months ago (4 children)

all Thinkpad models (doesn't extend to other Lenovo series) have exceptional Linux compatibility and support as long as you go a generation or two before the current one. there are some edge cases, like the fingerprint sensors on some less popular models, but if you stick to tried and tested models, you won't have problems.

the S-suffix models are like the Macbook Air models, they're thinner, have a single battery and have some more exotic materials used, like carbon, magnesium, etc. they also have one RAM bank soldered so that's an issue if you get one with e.g. 4 GB soldered, you're either maxed out at 8 GB if you want dual-channel performance or if you go with an additional 8 or 16 GB stick you'll have some performance penalties.

I have a T480s (here's how I got it) and even though it's less serviceable and expandable than the non-S version, it's light years ahead from the usual consumer grade models out there, everything is easily sourced and replaced, with detailed hardware maintenance manuals straight from the manufacturer.

anyhow, if you're moving from some consumer-class model, you can safely ignore the additional thinness as even the standard T480 is portable enough in comparison to the usual drastic-plastic e-waste.

as to newer versions, I was merely pointing out that you don't have to limit yourself to the exact model (e.g. T480) but look at other, similar models if you happen to stumble onto one. like, I got a T14 Gen1 AMD with a busted screen for about $100 and that's a vastly better machine than the T480s. it's hexa-core, way better graphics, connectivity, power efficiency, and since it's younger the battery is in better shape. the soldered 16 GB limits it to 32 GB max, but that's more than enough for my use cases.

[–] dingdongitsabear@lemmy.ml 3 points 9 months ago

to me the Ian Holm abomination was terrible, without any redeeming qualities. same thing as rogue one, exact same shittyness, zero technological progress, crude and unnecessarily distracting.

[–] dingdongitsabear@lemmy.ml 3 points 9 months ago* (last edited 9 months ago) (8 children)

that's about the crux of it. it's a widely available platform that can be had for cheap, the replacements and upgrades are plentiful and cheap and cross-generational compatibility (both from earlier and later models) is exceptional. some notes:

  • ignore the NVMe speeds; they're perfectly congruent with the rest of the machine and there are virtually no bottlenecks for the use you mentioned
  • no idea about the Guix thing, normal Linux distros (Fedora, Arch, Debian, etc) have OOB functionality for all comms; spotty fingerprint reader support though
  • there's a negligible performance difference between the top-of-the line i7-8650u and the entry-level i5-8350u, so feel free to ignore the CPU entirely. also be aware that earlier models came with the kabylake 7xxxu line, which you don't want for any kind of money
  • although panels can be upgraded cheaply and easily, make sure you don't get a 768p panel. the factory 1080p stock panels are IPS and 6-bit, so they're decent and power-efficient. if you're into color-accurate use cases, you'll need a 8-bit 400-nit upgrade at some point
  • if at all possible, try to buy it without RAM and storage; they're predominantly available with shitty 256 GB drives and one 8 GB stick and that makes a normally specced machine with 32 GB and 1TB+ storage unnecessarily pricier
  • don't shy away from newer models (T49x, T14 Gen1) if you happen to find them for cheap; T14 AMD for instance has one slot populated with 16 GB (1 free) and has only one battery, but it makes it up with a more modern, powerful and power-efficient platform
  • if you plan on using it with external devices (monitors, sound, etc.) do yourself a favor and get a dock station. just like the T-series they're widely available, cheap and work across generations; e.g. the 40AJ dock, you click the laptop into place and all your devices and PSU are connected instantly
 

so, up until recently (week or two maybe?) I was able to connect to the jellyfin-media-player from the jellyfin android app and initiate and control playback, change subtitles, the works. well, it's not there any more, when I click on "Play On" I can only connect to the jellyfin-mpv-shim instance, which works same as before.

now before I start troubleshooting and pulling stuff apart, can anyone chime in if it works for them?

edit: same thing when using the web client in firefox, isn't detected.

 

Anyone installed calyxOS on a Motorola G32? I have a 8/256GB version locally available for $150 NiB. SD680 isn't the most awesomest of SoC and the screen is IPS, but I'd swallow that if it works without issues. Thanks!

 

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.ml/post/20403604

if you're a long time PC games pirate, I'd like to divert your attention to an area you probably haven't looked at (I know I haven't) - Playstation 3.

you're free to look up its history, but in short, it's tech that premiered in 2006, so def on the old side. nevertheless, it's still in active use with game development reaching into 2017.

the kicker here is - it's almost flawlessly jailbreakable, allowing you to play anything that was produced for it, including games for PS1 and PS2! two caveats: a) I haven't registered nor used a PSN account, as I see no value in it so no idea if network play works and b) I only tried 15 or so games.

they can be had in the $30-50 range, the older models (fat and earlier slim) being preferable because they support the persistent hack, while later slims and superslims are less so, but still hackable with a non-persistent hack (you need to patch it every time it powers on).

the hack is super easy and straightforward and involves no hardware mods of any kind - it wouldn't hurt to clean and repaste a 20 year old device, though. the new hack with the custom firmware (CFW) is persistent, so it's there forever unless you decide to flash the original firmware (OFW).

because it's such an old platform there isn't super active resistance from sony towards the hack scene, so you should be good on that front for many, many moons. in contrast, the rare PS4 hacks are quickly patched and rendered useless, even though it's pretty ancient tech from 2012.

I stumbled onto one by chance, found a broken device sans Blu-Ray drive, seemingly useless for normies. thanks to the super-active community at psx-place, I was able to resurrect it, flash the latest 4.91 CFW with a noBD patch, got me a fake sixaxis game pad and an old 500 GB drive and everything works beautifully!

you can get games from dedicated "ROM" sites as well as torrents; I'm not overly familiar with the malware situation but I doubt it's a serious concern. the games can be transferred over the network using plain ol' FTP, copied from USB drives or even played directly from those. although it was the primary method of game distribution, I haven't needed the BD once. there are mods with store-like interfaces that allow you to directly download games from the internet and install them to the disk. also, DLNA is supported, I managed to play movies from my Jellyfin server!

although it won't hurt it, SSD are probably overkill. the SATA1 interface it has is congruent with transfer speeds of mechanical drives, so you're fine with repurposing one of those, as they can be had for next to nothing; max size is 1.5TB.

I've gotten a cheap sixaxis clone; cost me $10 NiB and it works. I don't know if I suck at playing dynamic games because it's shit or because I plain suck (never played with a gamepad before), that remains to be seen. I'm def not buying an original because they cost like $50+, and I'm not getting them used because yuck - who knows who sweated on them and what else they did with it.

a word of warning - you shouldn't spend a ton of money on them because it's decade+ old tech that's on the uptick part of a bathtub curve. the graphics chips they had, especially the early models, are prone to die and repair isn't viable.

it took me a while to piece together all the info as I've never had any interactions with consoles of any kind, let alone the hack aspects of it. if you're similarly challenged, ask away here or on ps3piracy and I'll try to help!

 

if you're a long time PC games pirate, I'd like to divert your attention to an area you probably haven't looked at (I know I haven't) - Playstation 3.

you're free to look up its history, but in short, it's tech that premiered in 2006, so def on the old side. nevertheless, it's still in active use with game development reaching into 2017.

the kicker here is - it's almost flawlessly jailbreakable, allowing you to play anything that was produced for it, including games for PS1 and PS2! two caveats: a) I haven't registered nor used a PSN account, as I see no value in it so no idea if network play works and b) I only tried 15 or so games.

they can be had in the $30-50 range, the older models (fat and earlier slim) being preferable because they support the persistent hack, while later slims and superslims are less so, but still hackable with a non-persistent hack (you need to patch it every time it powers on).

the hack is super easy and straightforward and involves no hardware mods of any kind - it wouldn't hurt to clean and repaste a 20 year old device, though. the new hack with the custom firmware (CFW) is persistent, so it's there forever unless you decide to flash the original firmware (OFW).

because it's such an old platform there isn't super active resistance from sony towards the hack scene, so you should be good on that front for many, many moons. in contrast, the rare PS4 hacks are quickly patched and rendered useless, even though it's pretty ancient tech from 2012.

I stumbled onto one by chance, found a broken device sans Blu-Ray drive, seemingly useless for normies. thanks to the super-active community at psx-place, I was able to resurrect it, flash the latest 4.91 CFW with a noBD patch, got me a fake sixaxis game pad and an old 500 GB drive and everything works beautifully!

you can get games from dedicated "ROM" sites as well as torrents; I'm not overly familiar with the malware situation but I doubt it's a serious concern. the games can be transferred over the network using plain ol' FTP, copied from USB drives or even played directly from those. although it was the primary method of game distribution, I haven't needed the BD once. there are mods with store-like interfaces that allow you to directly download games from the internet and install them to the disk. also, DLNA is supported, I managed to play movies from my Jellyfin server!

although it won't hurt it, SSD are probably overkill. the SATA1 interface it has is congruent with transfer speeds of mechanical drives, so you're fine with repurposing one of those, as they can be had for next to nothing; max size is 1.5TB.

I've gotten a cheap sixaxis clone; cost me $10 NiB and it works. I don't know if I suck at playing dynamic games because it's shit or because I plain suck (never played with a gamepad before), that remains to be seen. I'm def not buying an original because they cost like $50+, and I'm not getting them used because yuck - who knows who sweated on them and what else they did with it.

a word of warning - you shouldn't spend a ton of money on them because it's decade+ old tech that's on the uptick part of a bathtub curve. the graphics chips they had, especially the early models, are prone to die and repair isn't viable.

it took me a while to piece together all the info as I've never had any interactions with consoles of any kind, let alone the hack aspects of it. if you're similarly challenged, ask away here or on ps3piracy and I'll try to help!

 

I guess this should be an appropriate community, participants possibly on the older side... so, I only recently got my first gamepad. played with keyboard and mouse up until then.

so, with a couple of games I tried (tomb raiders, uncharted, NFS, etc) it's kinda going but I suck at anything that needs fast responses, like aiming and hitting moving enemies; don't think I'd have any trouble with a mouse.

so I guess my question is - any old timers around that got good at this late in their gaming career?

 

have issues with my feet in the metatarsal region. no idea if it's temporary or there for good. just checking if this means no running for me ever or are folks out there running with this condition. thanks.

 

I know some wobble is OK, but is this too much wobble on the rear axle? replaced the axle and the bearings, greased them up, screwed all into place. can't remember what it was before I replaced it, am I good here?

17
submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by dingdongitsabear@lemmy.ml to c/playstation@lemmy.world
 

found a Playstation 3 (model CECHH04) by the dumpster. cleaned it up and inspected - it's missing the BD and the HD and its cage; I jammed a normal 2.5" HDD in there and stuck some cardboard around. the light turned green, the HD spins up, the fans are spinning and the TV shows it's alive - no OS though.

I've downloaded Sony's official firmware and also some evilnat CFW jailbreak; tried both but the prompt on the TV is to attach a controller to the USB and press the PS button, which I haven't got. can I do something without it? tried a noname PC gamepad and keyboard but no go...

 

anyone got Chromecast with Google TV 4K working with Jellyfin? it runs Android TV, gets the Jellyfin app and then stuff starts breaking.

It can't connect to the server intermittently, playback stutters, stops, breaks... the server reports the file is direct play and no issues.

Five other devices have no problems of any kind, only this fucker has spells constantly.

 

anyone managed to attach a monitor to a Poco F1 or Oneplus 6/6T?

 

can someone explain leverage to me as practised by those RE ~~bullshitters~~ finfluencers. I feel their whole spiel is just bullshit but I don't know enough to be sure about it.

according to them, you "buy" a home - you put X% down and pay your first monthly (and then post on r/firsttimehomebuyer). then you go to (another?) bank and say "look I got this house I wanna use as collateral" and they go "wow you own a house! sure, have this bag of money"... repeat until you "own" like a city block.

like, how does that not crash and burn at the first step, just a cursory glance at the asset's status? how are they not "lol you ain't got no house dumbass come back in 20 years when you actually own it"?

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