cynar

joined 2 years ago
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[–] cynar@lemmy.world 4 points 3 hours ago

I've found it helpful for lancing the feelings of loss and pain from otherwise positive memories. I want those memories, and I don't want them poisoned by the negative feelings. By going through them I can decouple them from the loss and express that. It also lets me vent it in a controlled way.

[–] cynar@lemmy.world 8 points 2 days ago

The extreme masochists begin to back slowly away in alarm.

[–] cynar@lemmy.world 23 points 2 days ago

Most don't blame women, it's mostly the loudmouths online that do that. There are a huge number of men suffering in silence. They often know it's them, but don't know how to start fixing it.

I help out with a charity focused on men's mental health. It's both depressing how many men suffer, and great to watch them "find their tribe" and start resolving it.

[–] cynar@lemmy.world 3 points 2 days ago

That would make sense. Unfortunately, first class is at the front, and that boards first. It sort of flows from there.

I've also seen enough people abusing the overhead lockers to completely break back to front boarding. They get on and just stick their bag in the first available space, before heading back. Now, when the people at the front board, their bag space is taken up already. They now have to fight to the back, on landing to get their bags.

[–] cynar@lemmy.world 2 points 3 days ago

The fuse is in the plug itself. It goes with the cable. That's the point of it! 🤣 It lets you down rate your cables from the breaker rating.

[–] cynar@lemmy.world 10 points 3 days ago (1 children)

The fuses aren't to protect the circuit, they protect the end and intermediate devices. The breakers protect the actual circuit.

E.g. you've got a thin flex for a low power lamp. You don't have to worry about a short allowing 40A to flow down a 2A cable.

[–] cynar@lemmy.world 5 points 4 days ago (3 children)

Fuses mean protection is localised. If the socket is good for 13A, but the cable is only safe to 5A, you can fuse at 3A or 5A, and know it's safe.

This is partially useful for extension leads. We don't have to worry about overloading a multiway extension. If we do, it will pop a 10p fuse, rather than cause a house fire.

[–] cynar@lemmy.world 24 points 4 days ago (13 children)

For safety, the BS1363 (UK, type G) is by far the best.

  • It's fused. (Seriously why the hell aren't all plugs fused!)

  • Live and neutral can't be reversed.

  • Holes are gated (so no kids sticking spoons in).

  • High capacity, 240V at 13A gives 3kW of power.

It's only real downside is its size.

[–] cynar@lemmy.world 1 points 4 days ago

It has several modes. The most basic is speech to text, pattern match, then implement. It also has text to speak for feedback. No actual AI in the loop.

It's also capable of tying to AI models in various ways. It's mainly intended for question answering. Either general, or about your data.

I personally don't trust a non-deterministic AI having direct control of my house, so the split is useful.

[–] cynar@lemmy.world 29 points 4 days ago (2 children)

It also needs to fail gracefully. A smart switch needs to fail to a dumb switch, not "no switch".

[–] cynar@lemmy.world 5 points 4 days ago (3 children)

Home assistant is capable of it. Unfortunately it's not yet overly user friendly about it, but it's getting better rapidly.

[–] cynar@lemmy.world 6 points 4 days ago

It can, actually be done. It's just inefficient and requires too much trust.

You either do a general broadcast of power. This is incredibly inefficient, at any real range. To get power to the edges, the power near the transmitter will likely be enough to cook your cat.

The other method is directed. You basically put out a power beam that improves efficiency. Unfortunately, you also now have a directable energy weapon in your living room. I wouldn't trust something capable of cooking my brain, while I'm sat on the sofa, if it gets hacked.

Neither are likely viable for general use, though both could be useful under certain conditions.

 

My daughter (6) is aggressive abusive to her shoes. Trainers seem to last about 6 weeks before the toe is destroyed and the sole delaminating. Sketchers, or boots seem to last a bit longer, maybe 2-3 months before being annihilated.

Has anyone found a brand or range that actually holds up to the abuses a small child can throw at them? I've reach the point where I'm eyeing up composite toed builders trainers. That seems overkill however, and she doesn't like the designs available in her size (UK size 2/3).

Has anyone else ran into this problem and found a viable solution? It's getting both expensive and embarrassing. Oh, and before it's suggested, my wife has vetoed the boots from a suit of armour.

 

The challenge is, can you figure out where it is.

118
submitted 8 months ago* (last edited 8 months ago) by cynar@lemmy.world to c/asklemmy@lemmy.world
 

My daughter is 5 now. She's discovered the joy of telling jokes. Unfortunately, her repertoire is painfully small. I've also realised most of my jokes are either not age appropriate or too situational.

What are best/worst kids jokes? Extra points for any that would make her teacher groan. Apparently she LOVES jokes. 😁

 

I need some advice, and the amount of marketing spam had made sorting the wheat from the chaff annoyingly difficult. Hopefully you can help.

I've a young daughter, who uses an old tablet of mine to watch netflix etc. unfortunately, it was old in the tooth when she was born, and it's now become extremely annoying to use.

She currently has a Samsung Galaxy Tab A (2016). The size (10") works well, but it's gotten slow as sin, and only has 16Gb of internal memory.

Preferences wise:

  • 10" screen (±2")

  • 64Gb+ storage.

  • Long expected lifespan (inc security updates).

  • Headphone socket (adapters are asking to get broken, Bluetooth go flat)

  • Decent WiFi (more than just 2.4Ghz).

  • USB C charging preferred.

  • Wireless charging would be very helpful but not required.

  • Lower budget preferred (£200 range).

What would people recommend?

 

For those of you in the UK, IKEA currently has a steep discount on their GU10 bulbs. I've just picked up several dimmable, colour temperature controlled bulbs for £5 each.

They play nicely with HA via a sonoff dongle and ZigBee2MQTT, even down to firmware updates.

 

I've been using Ubuntu as my daily driver for a good few years now. Unfortunately I don't like the direction they seem to be heading.

I've also just ordered a new computer, so it seems like the best time to change over. While I'm sure it will start a heated debate, what variant would people recommend?

I'm not after a bleeding edge, do it all yourself OS it will be my daily driver, so don't want to have to get elbow deep in configs every 5 minutes. My default would be to go back to Debian. However, I know the steam deck is arch based. With steam developing proton so hard, is it worth the additional learning curve to change to arch, or something else?

 

I'm upgrading to a new laptop (unfortunately, a desktop is not viable for me right now). It's a VR gaming machine, with some potential work with machine learning (me learning about it). I've got a system option, but it's into price flinching territory, and wanted a once over, from those more in the know.

Are there any obvious flaws in it, and is it reasonable for the price?

  • Display: 1 x 16.0" IPS | 2560×1600 px (16:10) | 240 Hz | G-SYNC | 95 % sRGB

  • Graphic Card: 1 x NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4080 Laptop | 12 GB GDDR6

  • Processor: 1 x Intel Core i9-13900HX

  • Ram: 2 x 16 GB (32 GB) DDR5-5600 Samsung

  • SSD (M.2): 1 x 1 TB M.2 Samsung 990 PRO | PCIe 4.0 x4 | NVMe

  • Keyboard: 1 x Mechanical keyboard with CHERRY MX ULP Tactile switches

  • WLAN: 1 x Intel Wi-Fi 6E AX211 | Bluetooth 5.3

It prices up at €2,809.31 (£2,484.57 or $3,130.80) including shipping and taxes.

It's worth noting the system comes with an optional external water cooling system, so the CPU and GFX are less thermally limit, when it's plugged in. It also has a proper keyboard, not the normal membrane ones.

What are people's opinions? It is a reasonable price, or am I way too far up the diminishing returns slope?

https://bestware.com/en/xmg-neo-16-e23.html

 

My Google-fu has completely failed me. I've got an RGB addressable led curtain. It has 20 strings of 20 LEDs in a square arrangement. I initially assumed it had a wire feeding led data back up, to go to the next drop. On checking however, they are T jointed.

Apparently the address is hard coded into the RGB controller in the LED. I've found a few places where others have talked about them. I've also found that adafruit had some available,, unfortunately they lacked any info on how they are programmed, or where to source them from.

https://www.adafruit.com/product/4917

Anyone got any info on what the chip name of these is? Even better if you have any info on how they are programmed etc!

 

Might not be the best place to ask, but nowhere else reliant seemed alive.

My old laser printer has given up the ghost. What are people's recommendations on a replacement. As far as I'm aware, Brother are about the only company both making reasonably priced printers and not playing stupid games. Beyond that though, I'm not up to date on what's good and what's not.

Requirements.

  • Colour laser.

  • WiFi

  • Works with both windows and Linux

  • No need for scanner etc.

  • CD/ID card printing nice, but not required.

  • Photo quality nice, but not required (we have an ink sublimation printer for photos).

I'm UK based, which can mess with availability.

Thanks in advance.

 

All hail the lemming of Lemmy!

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