Are you handy with Raspberry Pi? There are a few Raspberry Pi ANPR projects out there. It should be simple enough to use one and send a command to your home automation controller or make a cloudy API call.
Z-Waver
joined 2 years ago
The frequency is infrared. The pulse code is what would need to be changed.
I can't speak for the no brand Chinese receiver. But I doubt that it has adjustable codes. The LG TV IR codes are not changeable.
You will need to:
a.) Replace the TV with a different brand.
b.) Replace the fan IR kit.
c.) Shield your IR transmitter and receiver so that it is more directional. But, depending an where everything is located, this could get annoying.
You have a good memory. I know that several Z-Wave dimmer lamp modules (e.g. Linear/GoControl/2Gig PD300Z) have this feature. Some manufacturers call it Auto-sense, but it might have other names at other vendors.
Any amplifier will do.
Want to blow an inordinate amount? Get a Sonos Amp.
Your post says 4-way, but the diagram is 3-way.
The TP-Link Kasa series is capable of 3-way installation. $-way installation is not supported by the Kasa.
I'll answer your question first.
somehow trigger something to use hot water for like 10 minutes in order to get the hot water heater to recharge.
Look into hot water recirculation pumps. It will cycle the water for you, without waste.
These are typically intended for use where the shower/sink is far from the heater and there is a lengthy run of cold water before the water in the pipe is cleared. The recirculation pumps keep the water in the pipe hot, so that you don't have to wait 60+ seconds for the shower to get hot.
Having said that; what you describe sounds like a failing heater. Either a failed heating element or a failed thermostat. There are two of each.
The WT00Z is a basic Z-Wave scene control button that should work with any Z-Wave controller. Though I do not have experience with Vinit.
The WT00Z can only be reset by Z-Wave Exclude. It would be my guess that the WT00Z is not properly Excluded.
Put any Z-Wave controller in Exclude mode and tap the WT00Z. I don't remember for sure, but a double tap may be necessary for the Include/Exclude on this device.
After successfully excluding the WT00Z, you will need to perform an Include with your Vinit controller.
It will be impossible to answer some of your questions accurately, based solely on the information that you provided. We don't know exactly what you have or even what county you're in.
Did the transformer fry?
It is a real possibility. Burning smell bad. But, we can't be sure. Someone with expertise will be able to test the transformer with a multimeter and know if it is good or bad.
Is it common to be wired to the main?
No it is very uncommon. Absolutely nothing, except branch circuit breakers, should be wired to the main breaker. I would guess that you missed something, possibly a sub-panel. But, if the light and transformer are indeed directly connected to the main breaker, then someone has done a terrible (DIWHY) wiring job that would be illegal in many countries.
The Ring door bell requires a special resistor when being powered by an AC doorbell. This is discussed in the installation instructions. I'm guessing that this resistor was not in place when your friend did the installation. But, again I cannot know for sure.
My opinion is that your friend does not know enough about this to do the job. My opinion is that you should hire an electrician to:
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Identify the breaker you could not find.
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Test the transformer, and replace it if needed.
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Install the door bell correctly and determine if the Ring itself was fried in all of this misadventure.
The easiest and cheapest method is to blow the car's horn and wait a few seconds before opening the garage door.
The next easiest and cheapest option would be to use a wireless door bell and put the button in your car. It will only cost $10. But, it will require the driver to press the door bell first, wait for the desired time, and then press the garage door opener. Lots of opportunity for human error and not automated.
The over-engineered home automation method could utilize a LiftMaster Universal Garage Door receiver to receive the car's garage door opener button press.
But, instead of feeding the receiver's output to the garage door, you would feed it to a smart sensor, like a Z-Wave Door/window sensor to notify the home automation controller of the event.
The home automation controller can then run a scene that sounds the alarm in the garage, waits for a period of time, and then sends a garage door open command on a different channel, like a Z-Wave dry contact relay, or a ratgdo.
For the purpose of "emergency" access, in case the home automation system has failed, I'd also associate the second or third button on the garage door remote directly to the garage door. You won't have the alarm but you'll be able to open the door.
No. Line/Live does NOT go to the wall switch. The wall switch is wired as below.
S1 ===== Wall Switch ===== Neutral
L - Line(live)
L1 - Load 1(light/motor)
N - Neutral
L2 - Load 2(light/motor)
S1 - Switch 1(for load 1)
S2 - Switch 2(for load 2)
The smart switch requires a Line, a Neutral, and a Load(Ln) as a bare minimum.
I encounter this type of issue all the time. People have different takes on it. Some are interesting, most are just selfish; 'I'm inconvenienced and thus this is an outrage.'
But, I'm interested to know who's really "at fault" here. Is it:
a.) Android for not allowing/enabling backward compatibility.
b.) Casper's fault for not continually upgrading an already working product.
c.) The consumer for expecting a totally new hardware and OS to work the same as the old.
d.) the consumer's fault for ever buying a cloud tied product.
I'm interested in everyone's opinion.