SteevyT

Heat shrink is the way I would go, but man, Im not sure how well that's going to work with the end coming off the short cable being a 90° connector.

That was my suggestion too, single cable would be preferred.

Add fuel until it stops going, add engines until it starts exploding, then add struts until it stops exploding. Repeat to orbit.

Unfortunately the only place I was able to find them was Amazon.

https://a.co/d/c7XdyEn

I found a bulkhead fitting that would fit through the barrel bung on mine. There is a string trick to thread it into place; but I just kinda shook the barrel a bit and it fell into place.

I bet that some where there's an electric mill that gets most of it's power from a local wind farm sometimes.

Discovered a couple days ago that the rear brake on my nice road bike was dragging badly. Like, give the wheel a spin and it would stop in half a turn bad. No clue how I never noticed that in the not quite a year I've had the thing.

The insane part is that for a similar effort, my nice bike with a dragging brake still resulted in something like a 2 or 3 mph higher average speed than the still pretty nice gravel bike. I haven't had a chance to ride it since fixing the brake so I'm curious how it does now.

Although, that also would explain some downhill coasting speed weirdness I noticed on group rides.

Half-assed Google search suggests he's worth somewhere between 20 and 70 million.

Astronomer as a company is worth around a billion.

Both the ones for adjustment, and the operator.

You'd also have to use the same slicer settings, similar room conditions, make sure that you have the same filament roll (assuming it's an FDM printer), make sure that nothing hardware wise was tweaked (eg. fixing belt tension), make sure nothing software wise was tweaked (it's nuts how much difference temp can make), make sure nothing firmware wise was tweaked, and the nozzle cant have had too many prints between the suspicious one and now (or like half of a glow in the dark or carbon fiber filled print).

Edit: and same print orientation, just turning the part direction in the slicer causes different artifacts, in extreme cases I've seen a part facing one way fail, but a quarter turn right or left prints flawlessly.

I can change what an individual print line looks like to the naked eye just by something as simple as tweaking temperature or print speed. Good luck getting anything remotely consistent intentionally by clever nozzle machining.

Also, nozzles are dead simple to make, it's literally just a large drill bit (1.75mm diameter or so) with a smaller (.05mm to 1mm) drill poking the last bit through. Tip is slightly flattened off and away it goes.

Also, as someone else said, nozzles are a wear item, it's like trying to track a car down by the brake pads, or a pencil down by the shape of the lead at the tip, using it changes the characteristics of it.

At work, cant watch.

Does it still have a 5,000 mAh long life camera?