Guenther_Amanita

joined 1 year ago
MODERATOR OF
[–] Guenther_Amanita@slrpnk.net 2 points 2 days ago* (last edited 2 days ago) (1 children)

Ich würde, so dumm das klingen mag, sie für eine gewisse Zeit seitlich quer auf den Boden hinlegen. Das ist quasi wie LST (Biegen), aber bisschen radikaler. Dann kommt aus jeder Nodie ein oder zwei weitere Zweige.

Jetzt noch Toppen weiß ich nicht, ob das noch so viel bringt. Probieren kannst du's, lassen aber auch.

Ich würde es eher mit LST probieren. Für ein zwei Wochen hinlegen, und dann mit ner Schnur einen Bogen bilden und die Spitze nach unten ziehen.

Frage: wieso hast du sie reingeholt? Solange sie noch nicht volle Kanne blühen tut ihnen der Regen doch nichts? Ich hätte da Schiss, mir Dreck und irgendwelche Viecher in die Wohnung zu holen

 

This is one of my ferns.
They give me a constant supply of baby ferns, which I can remove from the mother plant and put it into another pot.

Here's the plant as a whole:

I already split it into three parts this year, but it recovers to full growth in less than a few months!

This one was just one piece of root/ rhizome half a year ago. Look how big it already is!

Transitioning them into hydro has been a huge pain, but once they've adapted to the new environment, they thrive and are very easy to care for.

If you're interested in pictures or stories of my other ferns, feel free to just ask :)

 

Kaum hab ich mein Blattlausproblem dank Giftsprühen in den Griff gekriegt, kommt die nächste Klatsche: knapp 1/3 (vielleicht sogar mehr?) meiner Auto Amnesia Lemon ist jetzt schon dank wochenlang anhaltenden Nieselregen verschimmelt.

Trotz Vorsichtsmaßnahmen wie resistenter Sorte (u.a. luftiger Wuchs), Sonnensegel als Regenschutz, Hydro, LST, und mehr, hat mal wieder die Schimmelsteuer zugeschlagen.

Meine andere Pflanze musste genau aus diesem Grund ja schon vor paar Tagen (not-)geerntet werden.

Diese hier ist aber, meiner Meinung nach, bei weitem noch nicht erntereif. Da würde noch viiiel mehr gehen.

Was jetzt?

Lösung 1: Positives Reframing

Anstatt mich jetzt zu ärgern, will ich das beste draus machen und es als Experiment umdeuten.

Ich habe bemerkt, dass es kaum sinnvolle Fungizide gibt.
Jetzt bekämpfe ich Feuer mit Feuer. Oder, genauer gesagt, Schimmel mit noch mehr Schimmel!

Ich hab mir meine Mykorriza-Kulturen (quasi Probiotika) in die Sprühflasche geklatscht und damit die Pflanze kräftig besprüht.

Ich erhoffe mir damit, den Konkurrenzdruck zu erhöhen und die pathogenen Pilze mit den "Good Guys" zu verdrängen.

Mal schauen, ob das klappt 🤷 Viel retten kann ich eh nicht mehr, bei dem Dreckswetter...

Lösung 2: 🖕

Fazit

Ich habe meine Schlüsse gezogen. Ab jetzt wird draußen nur noch minderwertiges Zeug für Hasch angebaut, und das gute Zeug kommt aus der Besenkammer.

[–] Guenther_Amanita@slrpnk.net 2 points 4 days ago (6 children)

Du könntest es vielleicht an einem Uniklinikum versuchen. Da gibt es häufig Spezialabteilungen für Psychiatrie, wo junge Ärzte noch angestellt sind und noch keine eigene Praxis aufgemacht haben. Da stehen die Chancen evtl. besser.

Ansonsten vielleicht die 116117, die können dich weitervermitteln.

Ansprechpartner Nummer 1 ist eh immer der Hausarzt, da kannst du dir nen Überweisungsschein ausstellen lassen.

Wenn du sonst noch (eventuell undiagnostizierte) psychische Probleme wie Depressionen hast, stehen deine Chancen sogar noch besser, weil man es mit einer gewissen Dringlichkeit begründen kann.

 

Crosspost from !mosses@mander.xyz

 

Crosspost from !mosses@mander.xyz

 

Here's an update on my moss cultivation project.
I started this one about two months ago and made some progress I wanted to share.

Here's my initial post: https://slrpnk.net/post/23641560

Substrate

The substrate doesn't matter much.
I grow both on peat (old CP mix I had no other use for) as well as just LECA.

As long as it's kept constantly moist and has (almost) no nutrients, it should work.

I will even try to make use of those glass sponge bricks you use for flowers, maybe that will work even better?

Nutrients

Of course, moss isn't moss. As I do not only grow Sphagnum, but also other mosses (pretty much any one I could forage!), they have other nutrient demands. Some tolerate more than others.

But most of them are still very intolerant to salt build-up (too much fertilizer).

Mosses have a huge surface area and therefore capillary action. They wick up nutrient solution from below and it evaporates at the top.

This resulted in a lot of loss for me. A huge portion of my collection has turned into mush because of nutrient burn...

This is just one example. You see how dark green and structure-less it is? Yep.

On the bright side, some of it was buried further down in the substrate and didn't get affected as much.

And here's my Pinguicula with different mosses added as top dressing. I removed most of it and replaced it.

I'm very glad I split it up, especially my beloved Sphagnum, so I always have a backup.

I used a spray bottle and kept the dishes constantly moist/ in a puddle.

BUT. With nutrient solution. Hydroponic fertilizer, 1/3 strength (~0,4 mS) every few days. In hindsight, totally overkill.

Now, I flush it with RO water once every few weeks, spray a bit of nutrient solution on it once, and water it with just plain RO water for the rest of the month via spray bottle.

The outdoor ones get the same treatment, but with rain instead.

You will notice the nutrient built-up by:

  • Dark green colour (nitrogen overabundance, the first warning sign)
  • Algae
  • Crispy tips (advanced)
  • And necrosis (when it's already too late)

Light, airflow and humidity

It's always said that mosses prefer dim light conditions, but that's not true imo.

I would say they need as much as houseplants. Bright, indirect light.

The problem is heat. They get cooked or dry out very fast, especially in a sealed container.

Low humidity is also no problem, as long as they have a moist surface.

Hell, even when they dry out, they can recover easily. They do that all the time in nature!

Some tolerate that better than others. Sphagnum for example is a bog plant, and gets a bit stressed if dried out too often and sets back growth for a while. Others, like cushion moss, even like to dry out a bit in between from what I've observed!

Also, there's a phenomenon called "etiolation".
It's a survival tactic that gets triggered when they suffer from a lack of airflow or light or when the humidity is too high. Basically, in nature, when they are covered by something else (other mosses, grass) to give them an edge against competition.

You can use this to your advantage. When I have new samples, I place them into the second row with lid on.
Then, I cut off the strands that form after a week or two, which results in less sample matter needed and therefore way less contamination (pests, other mosses, weeds).

Pruning

Similar to classic plants, pruning leads to bushier growth.

With the significant advantage, that (in theory) every cell can divide itself into a new strand of moss! How amazing is that?!

The surface is covered super quickly after a few weeks.

One month ago:

Now:

[–] Guenther_Amanita@slrpnk.net 10 points 5 days ago* (last edited 5 days ago) (1 children)
[–] Guenther_Amanita@slrpnk.net 4 points 5 days ago

erneut

Falls das nächste Mal so eine Meldung aus Bayern kommt, war das bestimmt ich, sorry.

Dann hab ich mal wieder meine Balkon-Hecke entlaubt lol

 

Crosspost from !hydroponics@slrpnk.net

23
submitted 6 days ago* (last edited 5 days ago) by Guenther_Amanita@slrpnk.net to c/houseplants@mander.xyz
 

This is basically the only Oncidium orchid that has this issue. And I have plenty of them.

It's recieving a few minutes of direct sunlight a day through a small slit above, and the rest of the day it only gets indirect light.
That is the way it's recommended, since they supposedly need lots of sunlight, way more than other orchids like Phalaenopsis.

Others have a way brighter spot and don't look that way.

Might it be a bacterial infection, or a virus?

I've also looked for pests, but didn't find any.

It's also a pretty new specimen in my collection, is that due to transplant stress?

I don't know what is the problem - can you give me your guesses?

 

LECA (hydro clay balls, my media of choice) isn't LECA. There are many different brands and types around on the market.

TL;DR: The best brand is...

It doesn't matter! Just use the cheapest one you can find. I made an overview about the different types at the end.

Here are the properties that matter tho:

- Size:

  • Small balls have a stronger capillary action. They pull up the nutrient solution stronger, which results in a wetter medium, and sometimes more salt buildup at the top.
  • There's less space between the balls the smaller they are. This results in less airflow, but more contact area for the roots.
    For bigger plants and epiphytes (Orchids, monstera, etc.) you might prefer bigger clumps, and for stuff like ferns or small pots in general smaller beads are better.

- Shape:

  • Irregular shaped beads anchor the roots better
  • Rounder ones have more airflow and are easier to sift
  • When you spill some, the round balls will roll all over your apartment, while the irregular shaped ones stay more in place. Easier to clean up ;)
  • Reusing: speaking of cleaning up, rounder balls will be easier to remove the roots. But, I just throw them into the pressure cooker, and the roots turn into mush and remove themselves.

- Porousity/ Density:

  • They are all working fine, doesn't matter much
  • Some will float forever, some will sink to the bottom when submerged
  • Some types crack in the oven and explode when cleaning for reuse. You'll have to be careful and increase the temperature slowly to burn off plant matter. That step usually isn't needed tho.

How can you tell if a brand is high quality or not?

- Size variation:

A good product has beads that are uniformly sized. If there are a lot of small balls, they fill the gaps and worsen the aeration.

- Amount of "junk" in there:

I've had some bags where I found some wood chips, plastic stuff and unpopped kernels/ pieces of clay in there.
They usually aren't a huge problem, but still kinda annoying.

And that's it!

Overview and pictures

Overview

I live in Germany, so many of the brands probably aren't available to you. That doesn't matter tho, since the "type" matters more than the brand.

A

I got this one from Dehner, a local garden store.

  • Expensive
  • Good median size distribution, very round shaped and smooth surface.
  • Doesn't float

B

  • Cheap
  • I got this from Action, a local dollarstore
  • Very bad size distribution. Lots of very small beads.
  • Dense
  • Uniformly round

C

Brand: Floragard

  • Cheapest, from Amazon
  • Irregular shaped, rough surface
  • Good size distribution, but some are very big
  • Floats, very light
  • Explodes in oven
  • Still one of my favourites

D

  • Also from Dehner
  • Very uniform size distribution, but very small
  • Very dense

E

[–] Guenther_Amanita@slrpnk.net 2 points 6 days ago

Dude, WHAT?

I literally got a cutting a few months ago and had to throw it away/ gifted it so someone else (?) because I read that it is super super toxic.

I feel so dumb right now, fuck.

Thanks for the information. I will see if I can source another cutting, because you need some competition here in this community 😁

[–] Guenther_Amanita@slrpnk.net 1 points 6 days ago (2 children)

Your routine sounds like it already is ideal, great! :)

In my experience, flushing only often tends to remove residues not quite as well as it should be. Do you see those brown colourations on the pumice? Those are waste products of decayed roots.

Maybe you could soak the whole pot for a few hours in lukewarm water. The minerals and exudate are often inside the substrate too, at least I had it in pon.


Also, I now found the culprit of those spots:

Do you see the ingredient list? It's super short.
It lacks all micronutrients. This fertilizer is trash. It isn't "plant food", it's the equivalent of a slice of white toast.

Definitely get a proper fertilizer, like the one you mentioned from GH.
I personally like Masterblend, because I have a lot of plants and it's super cheap compared to pre-dissolved ones, while being pretty much the same.

Those "good" ones are usually two part systems. They include ALL plants need, including trace elements.

I made a post over at !hydroponics@slrpnk.net on how to make the mixing way easier, without having to measure volumes. Check it out to save some time ;)

[–] Guenther_Amanita@slrpnk.net 2 points 1 week ago (2 children)

Seeing posts like these makes me sad that I will probably never be able to own one. They're highly toxic to cats 😥

 

Gestern gefühlt noch damit geprahlt, wie toll es doch dieses Jahr mit Outdoor klappt, und jetzt muss ich meine Aussage nun doch zurückziehen.
Was ein Dreck.

Pro: Ich hab mir ein paar Euro Stromkosten gespart.

Contra:

Alles voller Insekten und Schimmel.

Gut, dass ich das heute noch frühzeitig entdeckt habe, sonst wäre es nach dem verregneten Wochenende deutlich übler geendet.

Ein kleiner Teil muss wohl in die Tonne oder anderweitig verarbeitet werden, aber der Rest sieht okay aus.
Klar, es kleben Blattläuse und Fliegen drin, aber irgendwie krieg ich die bestimmt noch raus.

Ich hätte ihr eigentlich noch gerne eine Woche mindestens gegeben, weil sie in meinen Augen noch nicht reif genug ist.
Ein paar mehr goldene Trichome hätte ich mir schon gewünscht, der Großteil war noch klar.
Aber man nimmt es halt wie es kommt 🤷

Es waren 40 g feucht, getrocknet sollten es dann um die 8 g werden?

Und das war's auch schon mit der Geschichte meiner Auto White Widow 👋

[–] Guenther_Amanita@slrpnk.net 2 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) (1 children)

Seeeexy! 💪

Wie trocknest du?

[–] Guenther_Amanita@slrpnk.net 2 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) (4 children)

For me, it looks like a deficiency. What fertilizer and water do you use?

Also, how do you use the pon? AFAIK, pon needs to cycle between dry and wet, or else the roots might suffocate. Do you use a submerged, or a wick setup?

The roots should be buried, or else they might dry out and get damaged. Is that on purpose?

Do you flush and soak it regularly? It looks like there are some residues on top.
The nutrient solution is drawn up and then dries out on the surface, because the substrate is highly wicking.

I also made similar experiences and decided to not use pon anymore, because it just doesn't work for my type of (submerged) setup. I personally prefer LECA instead.

[–] Guenther_Amanita@slrpnk.net 2 points 1 week ago (1 children)

Also, Schädlinge sind natürlich immer so ein Thema.
In der Regel kriegen die meisten Pflanzen eigentlich kaum welche, so lange sie gesund sind.

Aber genau das ist das Aber.

Meistens sind sie das nämlich nicht. Zu viel Licht (Sonnenbrand/ Verbrennungen), zu wenig Licht, Dürre, Überwässern, Luftzirkulation, Nährstoffmängel, und und und... Irgendeinen dieser Stressfaktoren hast du immer dabei 😉

Bei mir war es zum Beispiel die Weide im Topf nebenan, die ist komplett voll mit Viechern. Und da haben ein paar die Möglichkeit genutzt und sind im richtigen Moment rübergehüpft.

Die waren bisher top gesund, dank Hydro und Sonnensegel, aber hatten halt trotzdem Stress.

Was Pestizide angeht muss ich mich mal nochmal besser einlesen, ich glaube nämlich mal gehört zu haben, dass z.B. Neemöl bei Erhitzen giftig werden kann. Ich pack das mal in einen anderen Post.

Und Waschen klappt auch nur begrenzt. Ich hab es mal mit Sprudelwasser und einem ganz kleinen Tropfen Öko-Shampoo getestet, und es hat auch nur begrenzt funktioniert.
Notfalls muss man halt Hasch oder ein Extrakt (natürlich nicht in DE) wie Butter herstellen, damit kriegt man das auch alles gut raus.

 

Oh man, wie sehr bin ich doch von meiner letzten Ernte aus dem Growzelt verwöhnt...

Meine Auto White Widow ist jetzt dann bald erntereif und was soll ich sagen?

Ein kleiner Schimmel-Spot vom Regen der letzten Tage, und lauter leckeres Zeug, das in den vollgeharzten Blüten klebt. Irgendwie nicht so lecker...

Dank LST-Spirale konnte das Wasser prima abfließen und die Buds sind relativ gleichmäßig gut verteilt.

An einem Fächerblatt ist das Wasser wohl konstant runtergeperlt und hat etwas Schimmel verursacht, aber ansonsten ist alles Butrytis-frei.
Trotzdem hab ich vorsichtshalber einige Blätter entfernt, damit mir in den letzten Tagen nicht alles weggammelt.

Was dagegen deutlich weniger schön ist, ist die Tatsache, was für eine großartige Klebefalle reife Blüten doch sind.
Katzenhaare, Samen, Insekten, alles dabei.

Mal schauen, ob ich das alles noch durch Waschen (Blubbelwasser) rausbekomme, weil aktuell ist das echt nicht appetitlich. So will ich das nicht dampfen.

Ansonsten sieht die Pflanze aber echt gut aus. Bin zufrieden.

[–] Guenther_Amanita@slrpnk.net 1 points 1 week ago

How does the soil feel? Has it been overly wet in the last days?

Do you fertilize it?

Might be overwatering, (potassium?) deficiency, or heat stress. Probably a mix of those.

 

I converted into a GIF, but somehow the file size increased from 4 to 120 MB 🥴
So, here's the video :)

 

I placed him back into the pollinator flower mix of course.

I believe it was one of those every parent warns their child of to not touch them because they're poisonous.

What species was it?

view more: next ›