DrNeurohax

I 100% agree that word is cringe and I'm totally into the fediverse for the long haul, but we have to address the pachyderm in the room: The word "Fediverse" is just as cringe.

I, ... I'm sorry. I can read it in a document, but the second a human being types it, I can't take it seriously. I don't care if folks want to shorten it to something like the FI (Federated Instances). Yes, there are other uses of the word "federate", but it immediately sounds like a federal intraweb domain or a group of Star Trek policy makers.

"Fediverse" is "netizen 2.0."
"Fediverse" is "cruising on the information superhighway Pro."
Please tell me I'm not alone in thinking this.

No no no, it's stereotyping and prejudice when OTHER people do it to US. WE should tell THEM that THEY are US, and by saying this to OURSELVES we have said it to THEM, so that WE know that THEY know, but now THEY are a THEM again.

YOU don't get it. WE get it. YOU should all be like US where there is no YOU and US, there is only the WE that is YOU and US, but thereis no YOU and US, there is only the WE that is YOU and US, but thereis no YOU and US, there is only the WE that is YOU and US, but thereis no YOU and US, there is only the WE that is YOU and US.

Simple. See? You don't? But, YOU must because there is no...

So you're saying there are people who DO use "normies" and people that DON'T use "normies". These are not two groups of people. Shit, I just joined this thread, so that makes ME one of YOU, and there's OTHERS that aren't here. Are WE the elitists? Or are THEY the "normies"? YOU said there's no there's no US or THEM, so EVERYONE is talking in this thread. ANYONE not in this thread must not exist because I know I exist, so YOU thread posters must exist, but wait, that makes ME an US and YOU a THEM.

(I'm not trying to be snarky, but this argument is exactly as nonsensical.)

Haha, thanks. I started to entertain myself and the length got a wee bit out of hand.
With the rate of signups they've had, I'm kinda doubting they even care about the rest of the fediverse groups. We're just bugs on their windshield.
But, I hope I'm wrong, too.

I've tried to warn people about them. I got a 10 pack early on while learning and it almost made me give up the hobby. Classic n00b mistakes? Some, but after I set that filament aside in a drybox, I had almost no problems. The only mistakes I made with those other brands were due to strategies I developed to rescue prints from IIIDMax's garbage. I must have used 10-20 other brands over the next year, revisiting the cursed spools occasionally.

I thought I could relegate the leftovers to my 3D pen. Somehow that satan-spawned plastic jammed it up. The pen is basically a soldering iron, a motor, and 2 gears. I've fed strips of PETG bottles cut by hand through it. The filament wasn't precise enough for my no precision 3D pen.

Oh, you poor thing. I made the same mistake. I know, I know, PETG logically makes the most sense - no fumes, higher temp tolerance, cheap - but save yourself weeks of misery and stick with PLA or PLA Plus/Pro/+ for a few months. PETG is a special beast. For all the shit PLA gets, it's not that bad and MUCH easier to learn printing with.

PETG is more viscous and sticky, and generally requires its own z-offset tuning and retraction tweaks. On top of that, it needs juuuuust enough heat to melt the Bowden tube, which happens to make it really tempting to pop a few prints. I'm pretty sure I invented new curse words while trying to clean out that mess.

PETG was the second filament I tried. The first was Silk PLA. It's PLA, but shiny, no biggie, right? Don't learn on Silk PLA either. Completely different set of problems. Silk PLA to PLA is like Frosted Fakes to cake frosting.

Just my $0.02. I know I was all excited to print mods for the printer right away, but I've ended up replacing all those mods with MUCH better ones 6 months later. Good luck!

Edit: Forgot to mention, make sure you use glue stick or hairspray on the bed. PETG will bond strong enough to take some of the bed surface with it!

Automatic flow calibration is so nice. I don't use any of the other "smart" features, but it's worth the extra cost just for that.

Yes and no.

I use a ton of different brands, so I always print a temp tower and a swatch card. I can't keep track of which word salad brand on Amazon is rebadged SunLu or eSun. I could totally see people that stick to only a couple brands doing a full calibration for each type and brand (maybe not color always, but I would do a quick comparison white-gray-black and anything exotic).

I agree. Especially on slowing down the speed.

A few other things to consider:

• Backing off the extruder a smidge can help.
• There's so much variation in PETG filament between brands that I would do a temp tower, just to be sure. I've had "PETG" that worked best @ 235C and 260C.
• Play with retraction. It looks like that printer has a Bowden setup, so the range of length can vary a bit, but I've had success turning retraction off, as well as setting it to 6.5mm. It kinda depends on the geometry and filament heat retention.
• I try to avoid getting near the printed part during travel - there's always some little hair that catches the nozzle as it flies by.

And like others said, coat it with something to fill in the tiny pores. I generally have some thin epoxy lying around for stuff like table tops. You can basically use anything as a colorant in it. It very slightly yellows with UV exposure, but the worst I've seen the decent stuff get is similar to a very slightly warm white from an incandescent bulb. A tiny touch of blue should make it weather nicely.

A couple things if you're new-ish:
First, I would highly recommend using a 0.4 nozzle. That's the standard size most people will assume you're using and it will just make your life easier.
Second, start with a 0.2mm layer height and adjust down in steps of 0.04. Below 0.12mm can bring in more compounding problems related to the filament itself.

In short, tune for the defaults first, then adjust.

It might just be sliced for a 0.4 nozzle (default). If you downloaded the gcode file, that's probably it. Run the stl or 3mf through your slicer software, making sure the extruder size is 0.3mm.

For some reason, I'm having trouble getting a sense of the depth of those strands and holes. If you hold it, does the surface feel scratchy and rough, or bumpy and smooth?

What adjustment have you made to the machine? Did you recently change to that 0.3mm nozzle?
Are you sure it's PLA and not other flavor, like PLA Pro, PLA+, etc.?

These are excellent, and I'm a bit of a customization snob. The only question I have is the old high detail icon standard. How you want to handle icons smaller than the sidebar, where much of the detail will be lost?

Suuuure. Just like you totally have a girlfriend you met at summer camp in Canada. Bummer she's not allowed to be near any electronics.

Only one of those two things can be real, and I've met a Canadian.