BayofBiscay

In the series of surf books I read, I'm just posting here the ones I find bring something to the subject, here surfing.

So let's get the obvious out first, this is severe gonzo. Surfing competition is the canevas, the north shore is the background, but the main subject is Chas Smith. His telling about his experience and his perception as they come, outrageous, unapologetic, raw.

If you like gonzo, this is a good one. If you want a glimpse into the background of surfing industry's relationship with Hawaii and what can be told of the localism that sprouted out of the north shore waves exploitation it's a gem. Bonus peek into a major surfing industry CEO being slapped around.

If you care only about surfing or prefer photoshoped posters to raw footage from a recovered phone, pass. I loved it, but really get that most won't.

More links:

• https://www.kirkusreviews.com/book-reviews/chas-smith/welcome-to-paradise-now-go-to-hell/
• https://www.harpercollins.com/products/welcome-to-paradise-now-go-to-hell-chas-smith?variant=32207501393954
• https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/17349166-welcome-to-paradise-now-go-to-hell

The ties / sleeper beams might look more like tracks with wooden sleepers.

Sun is on, water temp allows swimming 20mn without a suit, 30 asses fighting for the same peak, all frustrated for not having surfed for months. Recognized 5 locals only in the bunch.

Shit season is on, waves are becoming crap, tourists are crowding the spot, can't wait for September. Or at least July/August when waves are even worst but at least beginner surfers are not the assholes spring surfers are.

This is a world event in Abu Dhabi, in a wave pool where the whole reading of the wave is not applicable anymore and they're just cruising jet skis to get back and forth.

It just gives the feeling of having sailing competition where boats are allowed to have a motor to help upwind.

cross-posted from: https://jlai.lu/post/12356398

Last session had great conditions

First out at sunrise, glassy shoulder high sets, got bigger towards the end of session when I took that picture.

Beach break with several peaks, this one is the second biggest of the beach. I started there but ended my session on a smaller peak (re-shoulder high) 500m away.

Waves we're closing a bit, they were slower the day before.

Just finished this one, can strongly recommend it. (Others are Barbarian days and Wingnut's complete surfing).

From ancient Peru to tow-in, from Hawaiian finless to channeled shortboards, from Duke Kahanamoku to Lane Beachley, from army cutoffs to Quicksilver, stomp parties to world cup events, this book covers everything surf until the 2010s.

A rather easy read, provides the needed dose when too sick to surf.

Edited typos

Bonjour à toustes.

Comme mon pseudo l'indique, je suis un male cis hétero qui fait des sports de brute viriliste.

Ceci dit, j'ai un cerveau des sentiment et énormément de respect. Donc mon premier poste est lié à la découverte. Il y a 5 minutes d'un film dont j'ai hâte qu'il sort et soit disponible, Sur la vie d'une femme ex leadeur mondiale d'un des sports les plus virilistes dans un des pays les plus toutphobes.

cross-posted from: https://jlai.lu/post/12775145

Movie: Torren Martyn - REFLECTION

That's ~~bodhi~~ Torren Martyn

That's ~~bodhi~~ Torren Martyn

cross-posted from: https://jlai.lu/post/12356398

First out at sunrise, glassy shoulder high sets, got bigger towards the end of session when I took that picture.

Beach break with several peaks, this one is the second biggest of the beach. I started there but ended my session on a smaller peak (re-shoulder high) 500m away.

Waves we're closing a bit, they were slower the day before.

First out at sunrise, glassy shoulder high sets, got bigger towards the end of session when I took that picture.

Beach break with several peaks, this one is the second biggest of the beach. I started there but ended my session on a smaller peak (re-shoulder high) 500m away.

Waves we're closing a bit, they were slower the day before.