this post was submitted on 29 Aug 2025
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3DPrinting

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I made a custom arcade stick (lemmy.dbzer0.com)
submitted 10 hours ago* (last edited 10 hours ago) by shelf@lemmy.dbzer0.com to c/3dprinting@lemmy.world
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3d printed custom arcade stick i made to use at the local bi weekly guilty gear strive and street fighter 6 brackets.

For the last 10 or 12 years I've been using a Madcatz Fightstick pro xbox 360 arcade stick but I got tired of using adapters to play on ps4/ps5 because they were causing issues with missed inputs and added latency so I built this controller with an open source board that supports usb passthrough authentication so the console gets inputs directly from the controller.

It uses a 16x6 inch aluminum plate for the top and bottom panels and a gp-2040ce for the pcb(with a magicboots adapter for ps5 support), the lever is a crown newhelpme lever and the buttons are 6 Seimitsu snap in buttons and 2 Punkworkshop buttons.

I ran into a skill issue using heat set inserts so i just made everything either screw into plastic or use captive nuts for the more secure bits.

list of tools and stuff used.

  • software: Freecad and orca slicer
  • 3d printer: Elegoo Neptune 4 pro(this thing sucks)
  • 30mm hole cut saw drill bit.
  • random assortment of drill bits for the mounting holes.
  • 1x m8 threaded rod to connect the wrist rest halves
  • 4x m8 bolts
  • 8x m6 bolts
  • 4x m4 bolts for the lever mount
  • 2x 16x6x1/8 inch aluminum plates
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[–] cRazi_man@europe.pub 4 points 8 hours ago* (last edited 7 hours ago) (2 children)

That's really cool. There is a fightstick community on Lemmy, but it's completely dead. Lemmy is too small for such niche interests.

I'm more of a hitbox guy myself. I don't have a 3D printer, but can do some stuff with wood. It has been really fun making custom layouts.

Controllers like this should always be DIY'd. The pre-made cases are hideously overpriced for being just a box.

[–] binarytobis@lemmy.world 1 points 49 minutes ago* (last edited 46 minutes ago)

When Street Fighter IV came out, I spent several months consumed with making my own custom fightstick. Weighing the options for different switches, color coordination, the pros and cons of different gate options. Probably spent at least 100 hours looking for the perfect image for the decal on top alone. When I finally had it all together I was over the moon.

Then, almost immediately, I realized that I didn’t actually like playing Street Fighter that much, and completely lost interest in the hobby. Checked that one off the list, I guess.

Your project is cool, btw.

[–] shelf@lemmy.dbzer0.com 3 points 7 hours ago (2 children)

yeah I didn't know /c/arcadesticks@lemmy.world existed until somebody cross posted this post there. I want to remake the wrist rest out of wood eventually to add more weight. Your hitbox looks pretty sick!

[–] wjrii@lemmy.world 2 points 5 hours ago (1 children)

I've used adhesive steel wheel-balancing weights on a couple of my modded keyboards. They're cheap, low-profile, and have to be lead-free. If you have room on your bottom plate, just slap a bunch on there. You can put down masking tape first if you want to avoid damaging the plate if you decide to remove them.

[–] shelf@lemmy.dbzer0.com 2 points 5 hours ago

I'll probably be following this suggestion I'd love to use a higher tension grommet in my lever but the controller would have to be a lot heavier for it not to be problematic.

[–] cRazi_man@europe.pub 1 points 5 hours ago

A trick for adding weight to a DIY keyboard is to glue down a whole bunch of pennies inside. You probably need more weight in a fight stick. Just need to add something heavy inside. Wood might not add as much weight as you want.

[–] FridaySteve@lemmy.world 2 points 9 hours ago (1 children)

I think you made the right choice with screw into plastic and captive nuts. If you're not going to take it apart, I think that's plenty. I recognize people like their heat set inserts and they're great for panels that need to be removed from time to time but for me, I prefer to screw it and glue it for most things, and captive nuts for the rest.

[–] shelf@lemmy.dbzer0.com 3 points 9 hours ago

for sure! I think the captive nut + oversized hole solution is a lot more forgiving and accessible you can buy all the stuff you need from any local store and it doesn't have to fit PERFECTLY cause everything just pulls itself into the right spot based on the lip of the 3d printed parts.

[–] shelf@lemmy.dbzer0.com 2 points 10 hours ago (1 children)

I put the holes in the side to save filament but ended up making a snap in panel for the start/select/home buttons so that was a happy accident. also I have since replaced the arcade stick bolts with button top hex head bolts so they fit better and look nicer and don't feel like hell when you drag your hand across them.

[–] Finadil@lemmy.world 1 points 8 hours ago (1 children)

Why don't you countersink the holes instead so they're flush?

[–] shelf@lemmy.dbzer0.com 1 points 8 hours ago

I considered it but i test drove the setup without it and wasnt bothered by them poking out so I decided against it. plus i like the brutal look