Not very good. Many communities are just too small for any meaningful stuff, the UI is ugly, the software's buggy, and Lemmy (and tbh, the whole Fediverse) sometimes feels like a political echo chamber, only favoring a certain side.
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I'm on Voyager (via the app store) and it is wonderful (and free)!
I agree that some communities are quite empty, but I found that the techn savy communities are quite large and well maintained (selfhosted, linux and such).
Although the read is arguably shorter, i have more time in my day as a result of that. Not missing reddit at all ATM.
I installed Voyager yesterday, I can't log in
I like the ui myself, and some of the apps are absolutely beautiful, I get you on the lack of engagement though, I've actually gone back and opened up a reddit account for this reason, I still love Lemmy and I'm certainly not giving up hope yet, but sometimes I just need more..