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After 5 years of non use, what precautions should I take before turning on a Commodore CBM 3016?
(lemmy.blahaj.zone)
I've finally taken the jump into retrocomputing with something I've always wanted to own, a proper Commodore PET, or CBM 3016 to be exact!
The seller said 5 years ago when it was last turned on, that it worked perfectly fine. However I do wanna take some precautions before reawakening it. Not that something blows after all this time.
I however am still pretty new to retrocomputing and wanted to ask the experts on here, If/what I should first inspect under or over the hood before turning it on? Thanks in advance!
Electrolytic capacitors loose some of their passivation layer. This needs to be present to make them DC insulators. Without it, they are a dead short. So while it reforms, they are resistors and heat up. This can be a problem. To allow the heat to dissipate and the passivation layer form properly perhaps try this: Plug it in for a moment only, repeat 3 times. Turn on and right off again and repeat 3 times.
If you see any damage capacitors replace them. Generally replacing all electrolytic capacitors is a good idea. Essentially those pesky tantalum ones.
Hm I see. So plug in for around 3 seconds and then unplug again 3x. Then turn it on and instantly off again, also 3x. How long should I run her for afterwards? Only like a Minute to ease her in or go all in?
And once she's home work on replacing all electrolytic Capacitors, sounds good!
If you replace them anyway... just do only that. To test functionality it could indeed help avoid explosions.
Havent replaced parts like these or soldered things before, so it'll definetly be interessting. Though out of curiousity, if the Capacitors do explode, would they damage other electronics in the system or would it only be limited to itself?
The explosion should not damage anything short term. Leaving the residue will cause a lot of corrosion long term. If you get into soldering, make sure to buy proper flux. It makes such a huge difference. Also not the cheapest iron. I would recommend a TS80P. For removing parts, if you do that more than a few times, get an automatic solder sucker, cheap ones should do. Otherwise use the iron with extra solder at high heat and perhaps 3 or 4 hands.
Ans dont forger that must be done under a hot shower.