this post was submitted on 31 Mar 2026
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Standard outlets are rated for 15A. The vehicle is already de-rating by 20% (to 12A) per NEC requirements for any appliance running for more than 3 hours continuously (which is how you get 1800W hair dryers but only 1440W space heaters).
Assuming code was followed for your house wiring, nothing is at risk there.
Then it’s just a matter of buying the right extension cord. Note that the vehicle will refuse to charge if the input voltage drops below a certain level (in my car, I think it’s around 110V).
So you only have to worry about a 10V drop at 12A or 120W of heat dissipation. Assuming all of this happens inside your extension cord, you just need to make sure you don’t coil it up too tightly (or, better, don’t use such a cheap cord).
Yeah the wire is already rated at higher than 15amps. It is safe if it is modern wiring. I wouldn't do it with knob-and-tube, but any solid core 14awg thhn should work at 12 amps continuously. Just use the right extension cord. Hell, you could just swap the head on a 20amp extension cord to a 15amp head, and never have to worry about the cord at all.
Right.
As TC has covered this before, consumers are clueless (and cheap) about extension cords.
Also, just because code is/has changed, doesn't address current homes and also imperfect installs. How often have I seen loose screws on outlets...
No, charging for high current, long charge time items like this should be like any other high current, long-run devices like stoves, dryers, etc, using a dedicated, properly sized circuit.
I don't want my house burning down because my neighbor was clueless and caught their lithium battery on fire.
Right, but people use space heaters all the time inside their homes. This is even less dangerous because people tend not to park their cars on carpet and EVs store most of that energy instead of using it to heat up the drapes.
If we're worried about pulling 12A out of a 15A outlet, there is much more to be worried about before we get to cars.
Only a danger if the cord is tightly coiled and drops enough voltage to get warm, but not enough to trip the car's protection circuit. A lot has to go wrong for this to be a major problem.
Also all extension cords are wrapped in fire retardant plastic, so it'd likely melt, short out, blow the breaker, and nothing would happen.
Electrical code is wrapped in many layers of safety. You really have to try to hurt yourself.
Big assumption, because houses aren’t all on NEC 2014, or 1999. Also assumes the circuit isn’t in use for other things - garage door openers are very convenient and are supposed to be on a reserved circuit, assumes that the connections are tight, and oxidation free.
There are reports of new dryer outlets melting because while they meet code, they aren’t constructed to run full output for 12h+ straight, charging a Silverado. Never mind the 1965 Bakelite outlet in the garage.
I agree with your point in concept but in practice it’s best to get a good electrician to run a new circuit from the box in even somewhat recent construction. The absolute state of some DIY work that people just don’t know about.
The photo you linked was a dedicated circuit installed by a licensed electrician. Mistakes/freak accidents happen. As I said in another comment, think of how many millions of households use 1440W space heaters indoors and don't burn down. That's what TC is advocating here. By and large, it's completely safe.
It was installed to code for a dryer, not a car.
That's the same code.