this post was submitted on 25 Jul 2025
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Prints appear to be lifting in one corner. (infosec.pub)
submitted 1 week ago by Setiyeti93@lemmy.ca to c/3dprinting@lemmy.world
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I'm trying to get back into 3d pruning after a long hiatus.

I found my old Anycubic Chiron, and thought I'd give it a go. Smaller prints seem fine. But anything longer than an hour. Come off like this. I say that what I mean is I excitedly take the multi hour print off the bed in excitement and for get to look at how it is.

The two longer prints definitely were at least in part still adhered to the print bed despite it being cold.

My next plan is to set a print away and check on it every hour or so and see if one side of the print has warped mid print (so far I've been printing before I go to bed, and only watching the initial couple of layers).

My guess it that the (pla+) filament is warping mid print... Its old I'll admit. But was stored in an airtight container with silica packs, and I dried it out before using. But any of your thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

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[–] IMALlama@lemmy.world 4 points 1 week ago (1 children)

Warping! Others have hit on a lot of this, so I'll try to be brief.

  • warping is due to the plastic shrinking as it cools. This builds tension in the lower layers of the print
  • bigger prints are naturally more warp prone
  • part shape and aspect ratio also plays a role. Parts with big aspect ratios (eg much wider or longer than the other axis) are more warp prone. Parts with sharp transitions are also more likely to warp
  • different filaments are more warp prone than others. PLA is least prone, followed by PETG. ASA/ABD are the most warp prone I've printed so far
  • fiddling with temps and speeds can help
  • make sure you have good bed adhesion (clean bed, good first layer, etc)
  • having good bed adhesion will only take you so far. I've had prints pull my magnetic bed plate up
  • you can try printing a draft shield around your part (think a skirt as tall as your part)
  • IMO eclosures are the way to go for warp prone parts. You'll need to be somewhat careful about chamber temps getting too high (this can cause nozzle clogs for PLA/PETG) or not getting high enough (ASA/ABS will still warp in a cool chamber). My enclosure has a removable lid that I pop for PLA/PETG and has insulation/bedfans/a filter for ASA/ABS
[–] MysteriousSophon21@lemmy.world 1 points 6 days ago

Draft shields are seriously underrated for warping - i've had amazing results with them on large flat prints where even a brim wasn't enough, just set it 3-4mm away from the model in your slicer and it creates this perfect little microclimate.