this post was submitted on 25 Jul 2025
54 points (98.2% liked)

3DPrinting

19195 readers
62 users here now

3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.

The r/functionalprint community is now located at: or !functionalprint@fedia.io

There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml

Rules

If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe/ may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is ![]()

Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible

founded 2 years ago
MODERATORS
 

I'm trying to get back into 3d pruning after a long hiatus.

I found my old Anycubic Chiron, and thought I'd give it a go. Smaller prints seem fine. But anything longer than an hour. Come off like this. I say that what I mean is I excitedly take the multi hour print off the bed in excitement and for get to look at how it is.

The two longer prints definitely were at least in part still adhered to the print bed despite it being cold.

My next plan is to set a print away and check on it every hour or so and see if one side of the print has warped mid print (so far I've been printing before I go to bed, and only watching the initial couple of layers).

My guess it that the (pla+) filament is warping mid print... Its old I'll admit. But was stored in an airtight container with silica packs, and I dried it out before using. But any of your thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

you are viewing a single comment's thread
view the rest of the comments
[–] FuglyDuck@lemmy.world 3 points 1 week ago

its not uncommon to start high and come down a bit. PLA+ typically has it's glass transition right around there, and you do not want to be above that.

check the actual surface temperature, if you can, since most beds, the surface will be cooler than what the probe under it is saying, but typically you want 55ish for printing temp.

another way you can check is to just set some scrap plastic of the same filament on it. If it goes rubbery and pliant, its too high. the tricky thing about glass transition is it's not a single point, it's more of a small range, where, approaching it, it starts getting noticeably softer until it stops changing as much.