Steam Deck

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A place to discuss and support all things Steam Deck.

Replacement for r/steamdeck_linux.

As Lemmy doesn't have flairs yet, you can use these prefixes to indicate what type of post you have made, eg:
[Flair] My post title

The following is a list of suggested flairs:
[Discussion] - General discussion.
[Help] - A request for help or support.
[News] - News about the deck.
[PSA] - Sharing important information.
[Game] - News / info about a game on the deck.
[Update] - An update to a previous post.
[Meta] - Discussion about this community.

Some more Steam Deck specific flairs:
[Boot Screen] - Custom boot screens/videos.
[Selling] - If you are selling your deck.

These are not enforced, but they are encouraged.

Rules:

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Certain games such as the re4 remake and stray, will randomly drop to 5 fps for a few seconds, then jump back up to 30-40 fps. These games normally run fine at 40fps but I'm not sure what causes the drops.

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Hey everyone! Despite my efforts, my fiancé really doesn’t get into video games much. Mechanical skill limitations frustrate her, and sometimes her attention span for games isn’t high when she could read a book or watch a show, I want to try a new tactic to see if it works: games where she can be a “backseat driver.”

I’m mainly thinking of story focused games that aren’t reliant on mechanical skill and where having a second person watching can meaningfully contribute.

Some games I’ve thought of are the Phoenix Wright games, and Return of the Obra Dinn. Does anyone else have suggestions for games I could try to play with her?

Steamdeck verified games preferred, so I can play while docked to our TV.

1429
 
 

I have to mention that my computer is also running Linux, more precisely MX Linux. And yes, I know that Steam Cloud does exist. My concern is with games that do not support it (or not for certain things, maybe). Would manually moving games from my PC to the deck work? Maybe through mounting the Steam folder on the deck as a network drive or some sort?

Update 14/11: I now have a Steam Deck myself. After lots of trial and error, I zipped everything I found in my home folder (except the games) on my computer, then moved the archive into my Mega account. Then installed Mega on the Deck and unzipped everything there. For the games themselves, Valve seems to be thinking the same way as me - you can connect your Deck to the same network as your PC and the files to your desired game will be copied over LAN instead of being downloaded over the internet. Nifty feature.

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I just had to do this myself and found this handy guide on reddit created about a year ago. So I don't claim credit, but I wouldn't want such useful content to be available only on reddit, so I'll share it over here:

Credit goes to /u/walllable.

Original POST:

Title's pretty self explanatory I think! This will be using VirtualHere, a program that connects one computer's USB devices to another computer via Wi-Fi, and will also let you access this functionality via Game Mode, so you don't have to go into the desktop in order to do this. This might use less battery power than controlling your PC via Steam Link as well since the Deck doesn't have to decode a video/audio stream and all that. This involves installing the program on both your Deck, and on your PC. I'll be providing instructions for both.

Skip step 1 if you've already set the desktop deck account's password. If you don't know if you have or not, go ahead and follow it.

  1. Go into desktop mode (Open the Steam Menu, go to Power, select "Switch to Desktop,") open System Settings, and go to the Users section, then click "Change Password." Set it to whatever you'd like, though ideally something easy to type with the On-Screen Keyboard, since you'll be typing it every time you want to use the Deck as a controller.

  2. Open the file browser, and make a folder in the Documents folder named "virtualhere" (all lowercase, no quotes)

  3. Download the VirtualHere Linux Server. The specific one you'll want is "VirtualHere USB Server for Linux (x86_64)," under "Generic VirtualHere USB Server Builds"

  4. Save the file you're downloading to the virtualhere folder you made in your documents earlier.

  5. In the file browser, right click on the "vhusbdx86_64" file that you downloaded, and click on "Properties." In the window that opens, go to the "Permissions" tab and tick the "Is executable" checkbox.

  6. Open Steam on your desktop, and click "Add a Game" on the bottom left corner, then click "Add Non-Steam Game." (You can add pretty much whatever application you want for this step, it doesn't matter much since we'll be changing all of its settings later anyway.)

  7. Find the application you just added in your list of games, right-click it, then click "Properties"

  8. Replace whatever text is in "Target" with env, whatever's in "Start in" with "./" (with quotes,) and "Launch options" with -u LD_PRELOAD konsole --fullscreen --notransparency --hold -e sudo /home/deck/Documents/virtualhere/vhusbdx86_64 You can also change the name of the application and set an icon, if you'd like (I set mine to "PC Controller.) The end result should look like this.

  9. Close the Properties window, and go ahead and launch it from Steam, then enter the password that you set earlier (The terminal not showing any changes as you type is normal.) If you see text that says VirtualHere USB Server is running...press CTRL-C to stop then you're all set on the Deck side of things!

You can now exit Desktop Mode, and go back into Game Mode on your deck, we're pretty much done here.

Now let's get the PC side of things set up, this won't take as many steps as getting it set up on the Deck.

  1. Download the VirtualHere Client for your respective platform. In my case I'm on Windows, but the process should be pretty similar for other platforms? I'm not sure about Linux, but assume if you're using Linux you probably know what to do.

  2. Open the file that you just downloaded, you should see a window like this pop up.

  3. Open the application you added on your Deck, and enter your password with the On-Screen Keyboard (Old down the Steam button, and press the X button to bring it up.)

  4. Once you've done that, the window on your desktop should have its list populated like this. If not, try double-clicking on the "USB Hubs" text in the window. That seems to help it appear faster for me, I think?

  5. Double-click on the "Steam Controller" entry, and you should hear a noise indicating a USB device got connected, and a popup similar to this from Steam in the bottom-right corner.

And you should be all set! Your Deck will now behave like a Steam Controller does, including being able to do stuff on the desktop, per-game bindings (that use your custom bindings from your Deck if you've got any set up!) and gyro functionality.

To disconnect the Deck from your PC, show the VirtualHere window from the status section thing on your taskbar, and just double-click on the Steam Controller entry again. You should hear Windows' "USB Disconnect" sound, and regain control on the Deck itself so you can exit the application.

Some notes that I think can be handy:

  1. If you don't regain control on your Deck after exiting VirtualHere, don't worry, this isn't permanent! Just hold down the power button on the top, and select "Restart." Once the Deck's back up and running, you should be all good.

  2. If you're having problems with latency or the connection dropping out, try connecting your Deck to the 5ghz band of your router (Or the 2.4ghz band if 5 ghz is screwing you over!)

  3. Lowering the screen brightness on your Deck before you connect it to your PC will help your battery last longer, if you plan on using it for an extended period of time.

Hopefully Valve adds this as native functionality someday, but until then I've really been liking this, since I don't really have any other controllers to use other than a Steam Controller, and I figured "Well, I paid $400 for this thing with a good controller in it, I might as well use it for my PC." Hope this guide came in handy!

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I am a fan of using dual touchpads on the Steam Controller, but could not get comfortable with using the Steam Deck in the same fashion due to the touchpad placement.

Anyone try these grips?

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Is there a way to get cloud saves for non steam deck games? What are people's set ups?

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submitted 2 years ago* (last edited 2 years ago) by G0ldenSp00n@lemmy.jacaranda.club to c/steamdeck@sopuli.xyz
 
 

photo of the back https://lemmy.jacaranda.club/pictrs/image/aa74a32e-b453-4cc2-9845-7ae73d415860.jpeg

build was pretty smooth, having the right set of tools really helped a ton. bought the full ifixit screen removal set. happy to answwr any questions for anyone that is thinking about trying this!

1435
 
 

I've been thinking about getting a Deck and was wondering if anyone has experience running Bedrock Minecraft on it? Specifically with regards to controls, and updates. A few years ago I was playing Bedrock on my linux laptop, and it seemed like there were times where the client would be outdated, keeping me from playing with my kid.

1436
 
 

Typing on the steam deck, no matter what method I use, is very slow. I have a linux laptop, but I obviously can't plug in the keyboard into the steam deck.

I was considering running KDE connect, but it gets closed in game mode. Could I run some kind of service in the background during game mode? Like is there some kind of systemd target for that?

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A couple of days ago I asked about using my xbox one controller with my steam deck. I did get it working via bluetooth but I'd prefer something I could plug into my dock. I have an old xbox 360 controller that still works but the PC receiver I had no longer works. If I get a replacement 360 receiver (or maybe a different receiver for an xbox one controller) will that work out of the box on my steam deck?

I know there's a project for the xbox one receiver I've got but due to the way SteamOS is set up I'd need to reinstall those drivers whenever there's an update which I don't really want to bother with.

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This guide presents 3 different ways to play flash games on your deck, ordered by complexity. This is actually a remake of a guide I had previously made on Reddit, but seeing as that platform is failing, I wanted to move this guide elsewhere, taking the time to recreate it.

Here are some videos covering the stuff here (not by me, though):


Basic Guide (Discover Store Method)

To start off, first open up the Discover Store and search "Adobe Flash Player". Install the entry that looks like this:

Screenshot of the app page for "Adobe Flash Player" on the Discover Store

Next, acquire some SWF files (flash games). You can find these in many places, but I've found that a game's speedrun page will most likely have the SWF file for that game. After downloading, use the Dolphin file manager to place these files in an easy to find spot.

Screenshot of a folder in Dolphin containing several SWF game files

Finally, open up the Flash Player installed from the Store. At the top left of the window, hit File > Open. Select any of the SWF files you've acquired. You are now playing a Flash game.

Two screenshots. The first shows the file dialog in the Flash Player. The second shows "Obey The Game" being played.

You can make a custom control configuration for Flash by adding the Flash Player as a non-steam game. This will enable you to use keyboard controls with your Deck's inputs. (At this point however, you might as well use the next guide).

Limitations with this method

  • Unable to play most Flash Games (see beginning of Intermediate Guide)
  • Requires you to search for SWF files
  • Only 1 app, therefore only 1 controller configuration possible for all of your flash games

Benefits with this method

  • All Flash Games are in one place with little extra configuration

Intermediate Guide (Flashpoint + Proton)

You may have noticed with the Basic Guide that some (if not most) Flash Games do not work. This is because many Flash Games rely on a connection to an external server; the Discover Store Flash Player cannot simulate this connection. Another app, Flashpoint, does simulate this connection, and is what will be installed in this guide.

Installing Flashpoint & CLIFp

Begin by going to the Flashpoint download page and downloading the Windows EXE of Flashpoint Infinity.

Screenshot of the Flashpoint Download Page with the correct link highlighted

Next, open up Dolphin and find the downloaded file. Change its extension from .exe to .7z. Open the file with Ark and extract its contents to a place that's easy to find.

A screenshot of the downloaded EXE file in Dolphin, which points to a screenshot of the file with the changed extension, followed by the archive open in Ark

Your Flashpoint folder should now look like this.

Screenshot of the Flashpoint folder just after extraction

We will now need to download an app called CLIFp, which we need as Flashpoint's normal GUI crashes on Steam Deck. Go to the releases page of CLIFp and Download the latest Windows Static build.

Screenshot of the CLIFp Download Page on the latest release with the Windows Static Build highlighted

Extract the contents with Ark, and find CLIFp.exe under bin/. Move CLIFp.exe to the Flashpoint folder.

Screenshot of the contents of the extracted folder, with an arrow pointing to the bin/ folder.

Your Flashpoint folder should now look like this.

Screenshot of the Flashpoint folder with CLIFp.exe in place, next to start-flashpoint.exe

Adding Games

Once CLIFp is in the correct place, add CLIFp.exe as a non-steam game. Go to the properties page for CLIFp, and enable Proton for CLIFp (any modern version should work).

Screenshot of the properties page for the CLIFp.exe non-steam game on the compatibility section

All that's left is to specify which game CLIFp should launch. Go to the Flashpoint Search Tool, and search for the game you want to play. Find its ID (xxxxxxxx-xxxx-xxxx-xxxx-xxxxxxxxxxxx), and copy it.

Screenshot of the Flashpoint Database search page showing the ID section of Super Mario 63. Contains the text "Be aware of additional apps. Most likely, the right ID is not the one at the bottom."

With the ID copied, all that's left is to add some launch options to CLIFp. Open up the properties page for CLIFp again, and under launch options, add play -i [ID], where [ID] is the ID you previously copied. Now, your game is ready to play.

Screenshot of the properties page for the CLIFp.exe non-steam game, where the launch options are added into their section and the game is renamed to Super Mario 63

You can add as many CLIFp non-steam games for as many Flash games as you want to play. Do be aware of the following limitations, however.

Limitations with this method

  • Each flash game requires a ~200MB Proton prefix that gets stored on the Deck's internal drive. This fills up storage quickly, depending on how many games you wish to play.
  • Some games (much less than with the Basic Guide) still do not work. Some may show a white screen, others may not play properly.

Benefits with this method

  • Much more Flash games work this way.
  • Each Flash game can have its own custom controller configuration
  • You do not need to search for game SWFs

Advanced Guide (Flashpoint Script)

This guide requires the most setup, but will provide the best possible experience.

Acquiring Scripts

Before starting the Advanced Guide, install Flashpoint and CLIFp. This is covered in the first few steps of the Intermediate Guide. You can continue with the advanced guide once CLIFp.exe is in the correct place.

You will need to acquire 2 user scripts for this step. Check out and download each script, making sure to place them in your Flashpoint directory and setting each as executable in their properties:

Each script targets Proton 7.0 by default. If you want to use a different version of Proton to run your games, you will need to go into the scripts and change the path in $proton_bin.

Script 1 plays games through Flashpoint, and should be used by default. If a game does not work with Script 1 (white screen), you may try Script 2 (YMMV with it, however).

I recommend renaming each script. I renamed Script 1 to fp.sh and Script 2 to fp-direct.sh.

Screenshot of the Flashpoint directory with the added shell scripts

Acquiring wmctrl

You will also need wmctrl. You don't need to disable readonly mode to do this, just download the package here. Create a directory called .wmctrl/ in the Flashpoint directory, and place the extracted contents of the package in it. (You can remove everything other than the usr/ file if you want.)

Screenshot of a split dolphin view showing the contents of the wmctrl package and the Flashpoint directory. There is some text underneath the package contents, which say "Only the usr/ directory in the downloaded package needs to be placed in .wmctrl"

Adding & Configuring Games

With your scripts in place, go to the Flashpoint Search Tool, and search for the game you want to play. Find its ID and copy it.

Screenshot of the Flashpoint Database search page showing the ID section of Super Mario 63. Contains the text "Be aware of additional apps. Most likely, the right ID is not the one at the bottom." The screenshot is identical to one in the Intermediate Guide.

Now you can add Script 1 as a non-steam game. After adding the script, go to its Launch Options. Add --uuid [ID], where [ID] is the ID you copied previously. Launch the game once; if you see a white screen, try using Script 2 instead.

Screenshot of the properties page for Script 1. The launch options contain the options presented above. The game is customized to look like an entry for "Pixel Quest."

Configuring Window Size

These next few steps are not strictly necessary, but they allow you to configure the window size for the best experience in Gaming mode.

With the game open in desktop mode, make note of the window title and the size of the game window while not in fullscreen. Use the size of the game window to calculate its aspect ratio (divide width by height). Spectacle (the screenshot tool) may be useful as it allows you to see how large any part of the screen is.

If you want to use the original window size, simply use the measurements you got. If you want to fill the Deck's screen size, use 800 for the height and 800 * the aspect ratio for the width.

Go into the game properties for the Flash game. Add --winname [name] --width [width] --height [height], where [name] is the name of the window, [width] is the desired width, and [height] is the desired height. Now, the game will automatically resize itself after starting up.

Screenshot of the properties page for the same game shown in the last screenshot. The new flags are highlighted.

Limitations with this method

  • Configuring window sizes can be tedious for every single game

Benefits with this method

  • No need to bind a "fullscreen" key for a controller configuration
  • Does not generate a large proton prefix for each Flash game (only 1)

Bonus Guides

These are just some extra guides that I feel could be potentially useful.

Flash Game Launcher (for Advanced Users)

You may miss having one place to play all of your Flash Games from the Basic Guide, or you may want something like EmulationStation for Emulated Games. While there isn't a solution specifically for Flash Games, I've found Pegasus Frontend to be good for this purpose.

Screenshot of the Pegasus Frontend (Launcher) with the Library theme, showing a collection of Flash Games listed in a grid.

In order to add Flash Games to Pegasus, you must first set up the scripts present in the Advanced Guide. With that done, a basic metadata.pegasus.txt file for Flash Games (with the script called fp.sh) should look like this:

collection: Adobe Flash
shortname: flash
command: /path/to/Flashpoint/fp.sh --uuid "{file.basename}"


game: My Flash Game
file: 16b04977-f714-4239-b343-b759e16a33af
...


game: My Other Flash Game
file: a8591065-1c64-4242-a2fc-99f16766aed9
command: /path/to/Flashpoint/fp.sh --uuid "{file.basename}" --winname "Adobe Flash Player" --width 1066 --height 800
...

Using Bottles instead of Proton

Though Proton is a useful option, you are able to do the same thing with Bottles.

You'll first need to enable all file access for Bottles. This can be done with Flatseal.

All that's needed is to create a new Bottle, then add CLIFp.exe and add the necessary arguments (play -i [ID]).

Screenshot of the Bottles GUI, showing several entries that are run via CLIFp.exe in a bottle called "Flashpoint-Bottle."

This also enables you to use bottles-cli. The command (when Bottles is installed as a Flatpak) goes like this:

flatpak run --command=bottles-cli com.usebottles.bottles run -b [BOTTLE_NAME] -e "/path/to/Flashpoint/CLIFp.exe" 'play -i [ID]'

Replace [BOTTLE_NAME] with the name of the Bottle, /path/to/Flashpoint with the path to your Flashpoint folder, and [ID] with the Flashpoint game ID.


I may provide a video guide of my own for the future, but for now this will be it.

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I've just pulled the trigger on a dock and I'm thinking it may be time to upgrade my external controller. I have a Logitech F710 which has been pretty decent for PC gaming and has worked well on Linux. I'm seeing the Xbox XS as a top recommendation. Is it worth the upgrade?

1441
 
 

Hey everyone! What’s your preferred input method for fps games on the deck? I find myself going back and forth between flick stick and trackpad. For me trackpad feels more natural but flick stick feels more worth the time investment? If I spend time with flick stick on the deck then I could also use it when streaming moonlight to my tv or at my pc.

Which do you guys prefer?

1442
 
 

I’ve had my Steam Deck since last June, and noticed the battery would drop from “full” when plugged in to 95% as soon as I unplugged it. I tied the calibration method Valve recommends, but also realized when I check the Battery Health in desktop mode/settings, it’s at 88%…which does seem odd after just one year? Curious to hear how others’ devices are holding up.

1443
 
 

SteamOS 3.5 will have a /nix directory to support the NixOS package manager. The package manager will probably not come pre-installed but the folder structure prepared, users will be able to install it without jumping through hoops.

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[This was posted by me initially to [!steamdeck@lemmy.ml](/c/steamdeck@lemmy.ml). By request, it is reposted here.]

So far, the information available on the Steam Deck screws has been sparse, while many people attempting to modify or maintain the Steam Deck noted their fragile nature. So during my recent opening of the Steam Deck, I decided to collect some technical information on screws that are otherwise not written down anywhere.

Types of Screws and their Propensity of Stripping

Most of the screws used in the Steam Deck have been noted as M1.6 (metric with a diameter of 1.6 mm), though below, I will be precise that these may not apply everywhere. There are two types of screws involved, machine screws (metal-to-metal contact) and plastic self-tapping (metal-to-plastic).

M1.6 machine screws will have a rigidly standardized pitch of 0.35 mm (ISO 7045:2011), often written in short as M1.6-0.35. The M1.6 self-tapping screws seem to have often a pitch of 0.64 mm, which some vendor references as a JIS standard (which I have no visibility into, but see, e.g., https://www.newstarfastenings.com/uploads/Brochure.pdf on page 29), whereas the M1.5 self-tapping pitch of 0.5 mm is defined in ISO 1478:1999.

The back screws are described in the following:

https://gitlab.steamos.cloud/SteamDeck/hardware/-/blob/master/steamdeck_2d_20220202.pdf

Measuring their pitch and lengths shows they are consistent with being:

  • M1.6-0.64×8.7mm (9.5 mm total length), pan headed for the longer self-tapper and
  • M1.6-0.35×5mm (5.8 mm total length), (thickish) wafer headed for the shorter machine screw.

Note iFixit only lists the total length, whereas you mostly need the thread length, which is the value after the “×” sign, when looking for replacement screws. I am not going into great detail about these, as OEM replacement screws are readily available.

Valve customer support revealed the specification of the two small machine screws at the top and bottom left of the EMI shield to someone inquiring about it (I added the head shape):

  • M1.6-0.35×3mm, pan headed

(total length 3.7 mm, https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/730764/). I do not recall an official statement on the large EMI shield screw underneath the foil, but in the eXtremeRate front plate kit, there is one screw shared between this and the SSD. Hence this is likely the standard machine screw as with the SSD:

  • M2-0.4×2.5mm, wafer headed, head diameter 4.5 mm

Three self-tapping screws of a more mysterious origin attach to each analog stick. There are 28 screws of this type in a Steam Deck. Yet no source seems to have ever named the specification of this screw. And my inquiries with Valve customer support got the response that they do not know (and have no vendor they want to reveal). My measurements suggest

  • In between M1.55-0.5×4.5mm and M1.55-0.55×4.5mm (total length 5.2 mm), wafer headed, head height 0.7 mm, head diameter 3.5 mm

These are very custom screws and are virtually impossible to obtain.

The best replacement I found is the ones that come with eXtremeRate front plate kit, which is 0.17-0.64×4.5mm, and a head with the same dimension as the OEM screw. As they have a larger M1.7 size, these screws will hopefully re-tap their threads further into the plastic. Empirically I found them to hold well. And these screws from eXtremeRate have far deeper Phillips slots than the OEM screws, making them significantly more stripping resistant.

Note that while scary (and do not do it unless necessary), in the worst case, there are two methods to fix the tapped or stripped holes: Using epoxy like J-B Weld, see, e.g., over at r/consolerepair (https://www.reddit.com/r/consolerepair/comments/rg3oec/repair_screw_plastic/), or you could also replace the front cover and therefore tapping completely fresh using your favorite screw thread.

I included figures showing the comparison between the screws and how they compare once inserted.

Appropriate Torque

Laptop manufacturers often supply the design screw torques in their maintenance or field service manuals. Upon my inquiries, neither Valve customer support (who referred to iFixit) nor iFixit could provide the screw torques for the Steam Deck. And self-tapping screws usually have empirical torques determined using failure analysis (screw until the plastic breaks) that only the manufacturer/ODM would know.

Therefore I applied the torque auditing method by loosening on a pristine (never opened) Steam Deck to independently determine the screw torques during the assembly process in the factory. These are as follows:

  • Back M1.6×9mm: 10 cN·m (14 ozf·in)
  • Back M1.6×5mm: 8 cN·m (11 ozf·in) — the initial loosening torques were a bit ambiguous, and this was rechecked by re-tightening and reproducing the loosening torques
  • Shield small: 10 cN·m (14 ozf·in)
  • Shield/foil and SSD: 16 cN·m (23 ozf·in)
  • Stick: 6 cN·m (8 ozf·in) if reusing the OEM screws, or 10–14 cN·m (14–20 ozf·in) when re-tapping with M1.7

The OEM stick screws are fragile and tend to strip with a slightly misaligned screwdriver above a torque τ = 10 cN·m. Hence the recommendation is to stick to 6 cN·m if the screw is reused. Also, these screws appear to have QA markings with red Loctite, which can artificially increase the loosening torque to around 10 cN·m. This low threshold further explains why many people ended up stripping these screws.

During my re-tapping with M1.7 screws, 5 out of the 6 stick screws could be re-tapped with τ = 10 cN·m, and the last one required 14 cN·m. Both values indicate that a healthy amount of friction is retained, not indicative of the tapped grooves being stripped.

Note on the Appropriate Phillips Bit

Annoyingly, iFixit would not provide any concrete advice on bit sizes. Instead, it says, “Phillips screwdrivers can vary in size and shape,” which is true. However, it is quite possible to check bits for the correct size.

The Phillips/cross recess H is defined in ISO 4757:1983 Section 2.1. Among the parameters in Table 1, the recess width f is the easiest to check for small bits. The correct bit should be ISO No. 0, sometimes denoted “PH0.” In the ISO standard, No. 0 has f = 0.31–0.36 mm, and, e.g., when I checked, the Wiha Slotted Torque Control Blade PH0 measures 0.35 mm.

A free copy of ISO 4757:1983 is e.g., in https://law.resource.org/pub/in/bis/S01/is.7478.2011.pdf

Note on Torque Auditing and Uncertainties

When using the loosening method, the conventionally used estimate for the ratio of measured torque/tightening torque = 0.6–0.9, with a mean = 0.8. For simplicity, 0.8 is used, with a ± 20% uncertainty relative. See, e.g., explained by Tohnichi:

https://www.tohnichi.com/pdf/03-inspecting-tightening-torque.pdf

Additionally, the Tohnichi dial torque meter has a manufacturer-specified uncertainty of ± 3% relative. This meter was cross-calibrated against the Wiha TorqueVario-S 4–46 cN·m driver, which has a manufacturer-specified uncertainty of ± 10% relative. Cross-calibrating both devices yielded an additional possible uncertainty source of ± (0.8 cN·m) / τ relative (τ being the torque), which can be from the indicator needle’s inertia and finite scale reading resolution.

The plots in the figure show the estimated tightening torque with uncertainties as error bars, their joint distribution assuming Gaussians as the curve, and the 68% Student’s t confidence interval of the tightening torque as a shaded area.

Raw Torque Measurements

Units in cN·m, annotated by screw length.

Back top (left to right)
- 9.5mm
4.2 5.8mm
6.3 5.8mm
8.5 9.5mm

Back bottom (left to right)
7.7 9.5mm
3.5 5.8mm
- 5.8mm
7.8 9.5mm

Shield (top to bottom)
8.2 3.7mm
14.3 3.4mm
9.7 3.7mm

SSD
12.9 3.4mm

Stick R (top to bottom)
5.7
7.4
- (10.8 but Loctite)

Stick L (top to bottom)
6.3
7.2
7.0

Trigger bracket R (top to bottom)
8.6
-
8.3
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Please let me know if any of these aren't working on the Steam Deck and I will cross them out.

cross-posted from: https://aussie.zone/post/212649

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I saw no GOL links here so far. Great site, it tought me about Reddit 10 years ago

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I want to use my deck as a console in my living room, and to do this I need to be able to wake it up from my controller. The closest I've seen someone do it online is here, but it uses the dangle which I don't have. There was also this tutorial on the same post for PS controllers via Bluetooth but it seems messy and tedious (I have to manually enable each device to test whether it is the controller or not). Is there a way to do this or do I have to get up from the couch each time I want to wake my deck up?

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Like what there is for dolphin, but should be more straightforward with everyone having the same specs.

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Close to pulling the trigger on a Steam deck with this current sale, thinking about the 512GB one but just wondering what the anti-glare screen does to the colors? In some pictures/video it looks dull and washed out, but it’s hard to tell for sure. I don’t plan to play outside and I don’t mind buying an SD card so I’m thinking the 256GB model might be good for me…any thoughts from those with either?

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Anyone else using the main channel update and has issues with waking the deck from sleep? Mine goes to a black screen every single time. Also non steam games don’t close properly and are stuck on „exiting…“

I know it’s expected to face some bugs when using preview builds, I’m just curious if anyone is having the same issues.

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