Mechanical Keyboards

I’ve ordered a classic FSSK but now I'm thinking why stop at just one?

Wireless corne, kailh box navies, drop mt3 cyberpunk caps.

I really enjoy the colorways of the GMK Pulse, and was even willing to pay the premium to get some, however as they are ABS, I am worried they will begin to shine at some point.

Does anyone have any suggestions for similar looking caps that are PBT?

Low profile and arisu layout!

So, I'm building a new board, and I've always really liked the GMK Pulse Base set. It seems their out of stock on the drop site, and the drop store has them on Amazon, but for like $145.

Is there a reputable place to get genuine GMK pulse caps, or are you basically stuck paying the premium?

This is keyboard #3 for me. I think I am finally there. Good feel with the Glorious Pandas (pre-lubed), good sound with a custom internal pad (poly-fill layers wrapped in tape and cut to size). Matching green metal knob from lovemyswitches (turns out knobs from guitar effects pedals fit well and come in a huge variety).

Anyway, I think I am done. My attention has been shifted to classic typewriters. I recently fell in love with the early 1970's Galaxie Twelve in Atomic Blue. (look it up, you too will be smitten). Now THAT is a mechanical keyboard!

• TM680 (Top Left)

Gateron Milky Yellow (Lubed)
Pudding Keycaps
Tape Mod, Foam Mod, Wheel Weight mod

• Monsgeek M1 (Middle Left)

Gazzew Boba U4T with 45g 2 stage springs (Lubed)
Gentleman XDA V2 keycaps
Tape Mod

• ZUOYA GMK68 (Bottom Left)

MMD Princess Switches 48g (Factory Lubed)
Revelation Rocket Keycaps
Tape Mod, Wheel Weight mod

• Feker JJK21 Numpad (Top Right)

Holy Tom V2 Switches 63.5g (Lubed)
Gentleman XDA V2 keycaps
Painted Black, Tape Mod

• ZUOYA Tester68 (Middle/Bottom Right)

MMD Holy Panda 67g (Factory Lubed)
Honey Milk Keycaps
Tape Mod, Foam Mod, Wheel Weight mod
USB C charging and 2400mah rechargeable battery

___

Humble40 with MW Art Nouveau

I like these caps sp much, the color scheme is my favorite.

Yo guys I'm writing this because I'm new to the hobby and I've done a mistake on my current build! I've bought some ktt strawberry and they were factory lubed so I socked them in water dried them and then lubed, but now after months of the build they are giving me a lot of problems, so I've bought some C3 tangerine that are factory lubed too and I want to know how you guys deal lubing factory lubed switches?

Thanks in advance for the answers!

I've been interested in trying a custom mechanical keyboard, but I already have a 60% (maybe 65%?) keyboard that I don't have any issues with, so I thought making a numpad or macro pad would be a good (and maybe cheaper) alternative. I've been having a hard time finding any that don't require a soldering iron and are less than $70ish.

Any good budget suggestions? I am up for assembling or disassembling things (or even programming), I just don't have a soldering iron.

I'm looking to upgrade soon and thought I might finally try a mechanical keyboard. I'd prefer to not disturb those around me, and I value being able to move my keyboard around freely.

I previously used Logitech and I like their software, and specifically the ability to switch devices was really nice for swapping work to home device. That's what I started exploring with, but I don't think I can swap around parts if I go with the MX MECHANICAL. On the other hand, maybe that's a good thing, since I always hear the line about this being an expensive rabbit hole. If I'm stuck, then maybe I won't go exploring...

I've seen other cool things I liked (numpads, backlights, knobs for volume, subtle dark colors, USB-c), but I'm open to exploring. Wireless + quiet are the only important requirements

My 7 Year Old decided that their GMMK needed a key cap refresh, so we sat down pulled off all the old caps, and put on new ones out of my spare/surplus.

The old Keycaps:

About 8 years ago I lubed a Topre clone board (CM Novatouch) with "Finish Line Extreme Fluoro PFPAE" which was recommended at the time. Now years later it has pretty much all turned to dust and isn't really lubricating anything anymore. I suspect this happened maybe 5 years from when I applied it because it started feeling not so great and I put it away to use another board.

Now I've finally gotten the time to work on it and I've cleaned off all the old crusty stuff and I'm going to replace it with a combination of 205g0 for the slider points of contact and 3204 for the stabilizer bars. (EDIT: might just try the 3204 on everything or find some actual grease for the bars, not sure yet)

I'm wondering if anyone has any long term experience with either of these and if I might be able to expect a slightly longer life from them than what I had previously?

Cross posting since I thought some people in this community (anyone soldering their own boards) might also appreciate this trick.

The only real complaint I have had for my Keychron K4 has been the plastic case, so yesterday I decided NO MORE!

I took some aluminim stock plate I had left over from another unrelated project and trimmed it down, tapped and countersunk mounting holes, and give it a hand brushed look with some 80 grit sand paper.

So far it feels solid, and I love the diffuse reflections from the key illumination. Combining the open sandwich plate with low profile caps gives it a really cool "exploded" or raw look.

I also added some silicone rubber to some of the larger keys to tone the "ping" down and give them a heftier feel and sound.

I dont love the stock stabilizers that come with this board so they may be the next update. Switches and Firmware are already all custom.

Hey everyone, it seems like Ducky support doesn’t really care much about their customers, I have tried to reach them via all sorts of channels but could not get a reply anywhere. Maybe somebody here can help. I have been using a One 2 SF for about a year now and I quite like it, it is my first mechanical keyboard. I was looking to upgrade to something with more thock, but I am a bit scared of building my own and there is not many options that check all the boxes I am looking for. Now the Ducky One 3 SF seems really nice, especially with the hot swappavle switches, but I really dislike the case. So my question is, can the One 3 interior be swapped into my old One 2 case? Or is there maybe some even nicer case out there that everything can fit in? Thank you!

I want to buy a new mech board but not looking to drop a lot of money on it. What's the best pre-built budget mech keyboard you've ever tried? ~$100 or less.

My keyboard supports split spacebar's, and I'm wondering if it's as simple as me adding another switch, mapping both to space and adding split spacebar keycaps. Do I need to change my stabs at all?

Sorry for the noob question.

A few days back my keyboard went haywire with most key presses inputting garbage. This was after I spilled a glass of water on my desk. I didn't think any got on the keyboard, but the two issues happened too close together to not be connected.

After a little while most of the keys returned to normal apart from a few, that have constantly been inputting bad characters. The B and V key inputs BV, the N and M key inputs NM, and so on for the rest of the right adjacent keys. Then the NumPad - and * enter *-.

I've opened up the keyboard and cleaned it of the usual dust using cotton swabs, tooth brush and 99% ISO alcohol, to no effect.

I can't get into the front side of the keyboard so can't be 100% that I've removed anything caught in there.

I'm wondering what next steps I might be able to take on this. I'm guessing there's some bridge between the affected keys causing this, though I don't really know as I've no experience in this.

Any tips?

Hi, I am pretty new to mechanical keyboards and have a lowprofile keyboard from keychron. Overall I would say I am pretty happy. The only problem is that I have rgb, but can see it because the keycaps have no transparent section. How would I go on, in finding other keycaps with transparent sections and don't buy wish quality crap that will feel horrible.

https://www.keychron.com/collections/low-profile-keyboard-collection/products/keychron-k3-pro-qmk-via-wireless-custom-mechanical-keyboard#

This is the keyboard

I ordered this on a whim and got a cheap set of keycaps off Amazon for it, but now that I have it put together (plastic switch plate, tape modded, gateron cap golden yellows, double o-ringed keycaps) it is sounding and feeling really good. The keycaps were a cheap but they are bright and fun. I might make it my "throw in a bag and take into the office" keyboard.

geteilt von: https://lemmy.blahaj.zone/post/1558957

Just got the Keychrone Q11 with Keychrone k pro Banana Switches.

Feels nice, but to quickly increase the Thock, i added more foam (just used the foam form the packaging).

The sound is a bit un-uniform because of the build style, but the profile of the keyboard is nice and low.

i really need help for what to do with the left knob.

I've been searching, without luck, for a wood tkl case or kit. Does anyone know of any for sale? I understand they may be hard to come by as 60-75% cases are easier to make out of wood, but really hoping at least one exists!

The non english keycap market is really small and have always held me back from switching to mechanical. I didnt like any of the options. I found a video https://youtu.be/JR1BwcFyexQ where it is explained in great detail how to make your own keycaps with a "cheap" diode laser. This was the last push, I have ordered blank keys, switches, teensy and started designing in fusion. I have a large(er) format printer so i was able to print it in 1 piece. Bottom made of bamboo pla, plate is petg. I did the handwiring with magnet wire, I found this to be the simplest option. There is a single capslock led under CL key. Firmware is QMK, I have 1 extra layer only for FN and 1 macro for the youtube key.