Functional 3D Printing

My wall power outlets at home do not have a center screw. Some 6 way splitters have a center hole so you can secure it to the outlet such that it won't pull away when you unplug something.

So I made this. It uses the existing screws from the wall plate.

Printable Link

Terms of Use: I spent hundreds of hours designing and iterating these organizers. All I ask in return is to subscribe to my YouTube and to watch the video where I design these bad boys.https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCaqk58gfGcDKyc1l4IGP_vQ?sub_confirmation=1 OR YOU CAN JUST BUY IT: Adapters for any tool combination are for sale on Amazon:https://amzn.to/3LjpfM6 Credit: For the battery connection I modified this file to make a tight fit, please give them the credit they deserve:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4850997 Disclaimer: Please be very careful as adapters can cause damage to your tools and even catch them on fire. There has been no confident safety test conducted in the making of this design. Use at your own risk.

The box is not printed as a single piece, but 6 modular plates joined with dovetail joints. Individual plates are relatively flimsy, but once assembled the box is rock solid.

This way, it is much faster to print, and is stronger since the layer lines are protected. It also let me experiment with infill for some cool effects.

Closer look at the top pattern

Front pattern

You can't see from the images, but each plate is printed without top layers, which make it even faster to print and use even less filament, compared to a vertical wall of the same weight.

The back

Gyroid air vent

The first 1,000 people to use the link will get a 1 month free trial of Skillshare: https://skl.sh/christopherhelmke07231This is the beginning of a video ser...

I made this design so that I can take all of the gadgets and prototyping electronics that I work on and attach it to my laptop making my setup much more portable. I was too late on submitting for the magnet contest, but made an instructables guide on how to set it up. I also have a printables post for the 3D parts. I have mounts for Arduino Uno, a few breadboards, Pico GPIO expander, and more are on the way. Let me know what you guys think! :)

I've created this clip from zero because the basic ones I found were too small and my sunglasses fell down every time I was driving. With this one the sunglasses are perfectly placed and stay in place. I am personally using brillenhalter_v2-2_filled of my uploaded versions because it fits the best. The alternative to this one is brillenhalter_v2-1_filled. The other two were designed for larger sunglasses and need more time to print because of their uniqe design. V2-2 Versions got a small bump on the top to hold the glasses better in place, please note that you should take your glasses only when standing still, because you need to hold the clip a little bit, so it doesn't fall down from the sunvisor. Otherwise I can just recommend it. The rear "hole" is for thinner glasses that would easily slip out. Printed for my Audi A5 Cabrio but it fits other sunvisors as well.

This is a remix from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3495751 A re-design of Leecarl's Sim Racing Button Box, modified for use with American Truck Simulator / Euro Truck Simulator. I modified the face plate to utilize the switches/buttons I needed. I also included a blank faceplate template for others to start with. I had to remove the letters from the clamp bolt, clamp body, and main body as my printer was having troubles getting them to stick to the bed and not get dragged around into the rest of the print. Additionally, I had to lengthen the clamp so that it would fit on my desk. I have also included a modified back plate that utilizes a single USB Type B port intended for an Arduino to sit on the bottom of the box. For the knobs I used genuine Bendix MV-3 air brake knobs. I have included an .stl for an adapter to allow these 5/8" threaded knobs to be used with a smaller, electric push/pull switch. All credit for the original design belongs to LeecarL (https://www.thingiverse.com/leecarl/designs)

View without the ereader for those who are interested

Already designed a case for my 7.8 inch Nova 3 Color so the end result should look like this sans the pen holder

I designed these for my family who has a tendency to break and destroy their ereader cases. And this was to make it easy/simple to make a replacement arms (pink section) when they inevitability break.

So far mines held up 7 months without fault while my SO’s lasted 4 since their case sees a lot of action.

Just found this community and thought I'd share this

My first printer (sv06) just arrived a couple of days ago and it has already saved the day for my kid.

His RC car stopped turning, and after taking the controllwe apart I found that the piece that actually turns the box inside was broken

I measured everything with my calipers and struggled with it in fusion 360 for way too long, had to make adjustments and print again, and finally got this:

Put everything together and...

Success!

For more 2020 hinges as well as other assorted designs A pivot/hinge for 2020 aluminum extrusion. The hinge is made up of three printed parts, none of which should need any supports, brims, etc. I printed mine from PETG on a 0.6mm nozzle and it takes about 1.5 hours for the set.

cross-posted from: https://lemm.ee/post/1009849

I'm planning to print up a bunch of brackets to mount LED shop lights (very similar to these) to the ceiling in my garage. My plan is to use an upside-down "U" shape bracket that screws into a joist/drywall anchor in the middle and then sort of clips around the sides of the metal frame.

Maybe filament type doesn't matter much here, but I'd rather not come out to one of the lights having fallen on my car if I can help it 😅

I think the main considerations are just temperature and stiffness. It can get up to about 85F in the garage on the hottest summer days, and probably a few degrees warmer by the ceiling. The lamps are cheap LED tubes, so the metal housing only gets slightly warm to the touch (say 90-100F or so). I know PLA is a bit stiffer at room temp, but I'm worried it might soften too much at the worst case of warm temperatures.

Any thoughts on PLA vs PETG for this situation?

T-nut for 20x20 or 20x40 V-Slot aluminum extrusion (6 mm gap) compliant with original metal T-nut but adopted for M3 nut. There's also a version that fits to #4-40 x 3/16'' nut:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3366563 Fits for most of the printers based on V-Slot, e.g. Creality (CR-10, Ender 3, Ender 5), Tevo (Tarantula, Tornado), Tronxy (X1, X3, X5S) and many more Put it in the profile slot and turn the bolt - it will turn and find its locking position. Check out my other designs:https://www.thingiverse.com/DaVinci2000/designs A decent set of M3 hex bolts and nuts can be found on Banggood:https://www.banggood.com/custlink/KG3vEvGOIp

Not 100% sure this counts as a functional print, since I purchased acrylic mirrors for this and cut them down. What I 3d printed were the templates for cutting the mirrors and the shell for holding it all together in the right shape and protecting it so my niece can play with it without breaking it.

Mirror templates: https://imgur.com/gallery/gKkYyYE

Images through the kaleidoscope, along with an external view of it: https://imgur.com/gallery/P4atHey

https://lensdump.com/a/9lia7/?sort=title_asc&page=1

Long live Lemmy.

Simple bowden tube cap. https://www.printables.com/model/521608-bowden-tube-cap

The original was held in with 2 big screws, stapels and a prayer. This is held in with 3 machine screws, the 2 big guys and it ain't going anywhere.

removed some material to speed up print, still works great. geometry gives enough support. used 2 drywall self taps.