AusRenovation

Hi all. I got the tank overflow conundrum sorted, complete with a three way tap so I can run overflow to the gutter or to a storage bin to track to other tanks. Lotta swearing, handful of dodgy chinese parts and a lotta fun

Of course me being me I couldn't fckin stop there, and have built in a float system, so if the bin hits capacity it automatically diverts everything else to the stormwater - but I'm not too happy with the flow through the float. It's definitely limiting.

Anyone rec a wide bore low pressure float? There's like,maybe half a bar of pressure on this thing, so it really needs to be something that's gonna let everything through until it bobs up and shuts off.

current one in use

Working on the never-ending basement brewery and we have this: old piping installation holes, leading into the kitchen above.

That grey subfloor is asbestos hardiboard. We are going to eventually redo the kitchen - just not this year (priorities, man!) what would be the best way to cover this from the basement side? gut says just gluepaint to encapsulate and a piece of ply to hide the holes, sound idea?

Edit: ok cos there seems to be repeated confusion: These are holes in the CEILING of a basement brewery leading to the asbestos floored kitchen ABOVE.

A property we looked at recently has this electric hot water tank. There's no date on it, but it's obviously quite old and the realtor says to him it looks like an 80s model.

Common wisdom and information I can find online says that you're doing really well if you get 20 years out of a hot water tank (10-15 years is a more realistic lifespan).

So... How is this tank still functioning? And if we were to buy this house, should we expect that we'd have to replace this basically right away?

Ok chucklefucks i hope you like homebrew!

We currently have a set of maze tanks down the side of the house. They fill up pretty rapidly, so when we're looking at good rainfall i swap the overflow out to an old greywater wheeliebin to pump to other tanks / use in garden. You can see the temp setup from yesterday's rain - the flow to stormwater is on the right, the temp plugged vinidex to the bin on the left

I'm looking to make this process easier than plugging/unplugging plumbing, so was planning on putting in a T with the side to an outlet I can clip an18mm hose onto for the bin, and the down with a ball valve underneath (then leading to the stormwater to cut over to binfill vs stormwater as opposed to my current screw/unscrew/can't curve the poly that much so it takes up half the pathway. Simples, yes?

But then i had An Idea. The top links between the tanks are a PITA. Always dribbling, don't feed through very much, would be a gigantic pain to redo as they're very tight and the bottom link is cemented...so what if i tied in the bottom link (white pipe at the bottom left) at a slightly lower height than that top overflow, which would stop the top links hitting regular capacity, but be able to use them during high flood.

So: standpipe from bottom linking pipe to tie into the top overflow, then work in a tee and a valve so I can cut over the flow from stormwater to bin....workable?

Obligatory before photo. Two panels up, screwed and glued. All panels up, plus some fill in strips where the wall/my positioning wasn't quite even. Bit of a pastel orange shade, going for a calm warm vibe. Few more bits to sort out, like the curtains, but this is basically it.

ok, so looking to get a rotary hammer drill. SDS / chuck, I don't care, can kinda go either way with corded/cordless - would prefer the latter, but well aware you lose balls with a battery.

I've been eyeing off the Ryobi HP brushless SDS (RSDS18X) but I think it's mostly the shiny factor and the fact we're already in the ecosystem - which I can happily toss in a bin if something better and cheaper comes along. It is the upper limit of the budget though, so call that a benchmark. Yes I will be shopping at the big green shed.

I already have two standard drills, an impact driver and a hammer drill, so as you can imagine the rotary will be used for situations where I am Done Asking Politely (and I have a lot of concrete I shall be negotiating with)

REC ME O WISE ONES

What a top landlord, supplied her with a shit stick and all.

grate - https://files.catbox.moe/ipp8l0.jpg

Inside grate- https://files.catbox.moe/ilcueh.jpg

I am kinda worried may be there's lot of rust inside it and one day it's gonna snap and electrocute somone. Whom should I call to fix it? Sparky ? Welder ?

Also, Its a duplex so should I ask my neighbors to also pay half of whatever I get charged to fix it ?

Some more pics -

https://files.catbox.moe/h5cahr.jpg

https://files.catbox.moe/a38wt0.jpg

Australian homes are notoriously cold in winter — draughty, with poor insulation, thin glass and inadequate heating. But there's a growing movement of people retrofitting their homes to make them cheaper to run and more comfortable year-round, while also reducing emissions.

So, there's the circular bulb itself, and also this little removable plastic cylinder with two metal feet on it. How do I tell which of them needs replacing, and what specification to look for to know what to replace it with?

Do we use a glue or cement to join 2 PVC pipes. Its for the reticulation system which will be underground.

Marble outdoor to internal hardwood. House built in the 60's and i just spent ages clearing up old carpet tack and cement some dickhead had slapped over the floorboards.

It's not even, but hangs around 3cm difference between flooring surfaces. The surrounding walls are original bullnose sideboards in spectacular condition, so would like to be sympathetic.

Ideas? Suggestions?

(Yes i'm treating the rot and putting in a moisture break between the cement and wood)

Anyone here know how to fix it temporarily?

Every household now have washing machines and nobody washes clothes with their hand anymore. Can anyone explain me why I should keep this and not replace it with a wash basin ?

Is this normal?

Another pic : https://files.catbox.moe/7ve71g.jpg