3D Printing

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For everyhting 3D printing related.

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cross-posted from: https://discuss.tchncs.de/post/270819

The newest episode of OctoPrint On Air, which was recorded on June 15th

  • OctoPrint 1.9.0
  • The new camera stack
  • Work towards 1.9.1 and 1.10.0
  • Brainstorming on the format of OctoPrint on Air

Full contents with jump marks available in the YouTube description.

You can find all public past episodes in the OctoPrint On Air Playlist.

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Everyone raves about the organic supports, but I've been using the beta for the improved, multidirectional cutting tool.

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I have the 3+ and boy howdy am I tempted to get the upgrade kit for the 4 along with the multi-color add on. Does anyone have any insight into either kit? The additional colors sounds so cool. And I definitely want faster motors with smaller steps...

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This was the first non functional/prototype prints after I got my Prusa. Pretty detailed for a .2mm print.

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Triple the print speed with much better performance. Flexible filaments (I tried a super-soft Shore A88 filament) are no issue at all.

I adapted a mount I found online, I'll put my modification up somewhere if anyone is interested.

Never going back to Bowden.

All other similar extruders (super light Nema14 motor, dual large gears) should perform similar.

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submitted 2 years ago* (last edited 2 years ago) by bl_oop@beehaw.org to c/3dprinting@lemmy.ml
 
 

Hey there, first post – hope it's okay to put out a request for some advice. I just started 3D printing a few weeks ago (got an Ender 3 S1) and contrary to seemingly everyone else online, I've had no issues whatsoever with bed adhesion, rather the opposite.

Mostly to this point, I've been using 'EconoFil' PLA from filaments.ca (which was tricky to remove until I bought a better bed spatula-thing). Yesterday I got a roll of Overture 'Eco-PLA', which I've printed with a couple of times using organic supports, and both times has left a really stuck-on, almost chalky layer of filament on the bed. This isn't so bad if I'm printing with the same filament afterward, but the Eco-PLA is 'Midnight Black' and I want to switch back to the Econofil for another model, which is 'Bone White' and I don't want the bottom to get stained with the leftover Eco-PLA.

Has anyone had any similar issues? Any foolproof technique for removing stubborn, very thin layers?

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Does anyone know of a good resource to download or generate terrain / elevation STL models that are bound to the shape of US states?

I came across this posting but the files are pretty low resolution and look pretty bad at the size I want to print.

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I realized I have a spare port on my motherboard to control an extra pwm fan (in addition to my blower fan).

Given the option, would it be better to use it for my hotend fan or for my part cooling fans? I’m primarily looking to reduce noise while printing (I have a pin completely cutting power to the fans when the machine is idle).

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Mk 4 Kits shipping
Began shipping semi-assembled single toolhead XLs
first dual-head models in the week of June 19th
MMU3 for mk3s in the end of June
mmu3 for mk4 end of august

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Hey all, so this is the biggest thing I've tried to print. I'm using PETG. I'm getting a lot of repetitive bands of underextrusion that seem to stack up and get worse as the print progresses.

What do you think is causing this? Is this just an inherent thing in the way an Ender 3 works by moving the bed?

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I downloaded a model but the Homer had several model flaws and the sponge base didn't fit my sponges so I designed my own. I basically kept only the spout.

I started with a PNG of Homer disappearing into the bushes. I cleaned it up a lot in gimp, then used adobe's PNG to SVG converter, which I'll say works very well. Brought that into inkscape and cleaned it up even more. Separated him into colors, pulled them into tinkercad at different heights, then printed him with 4 color changes.

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I love it when I have a problem and I can just go fix that with an hour of designing and testing and have a working solution printed for the next day. Just so satisfying. This is why I love this hobby.

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Is anyone here still using old 3d printers? For exanple i still use my old cr-10 v1

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For a managing innovation class group assignment I created a youtube video on 3D printing innovation. Please take a look, like and share:

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Took the leap last night and submitted an order for a P1P from Bambulabs.

After all these years of tinkering and fiddling with my ender 5, I'm mega excited to have a machine that just works.

What should I print first?

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Models from printables.com

Both printed at 0.1 layer height on Bambu X1C. Roadrunner printed almost entirely with silk, Wile E Coyote printed mostly from matte, with the flames being silk, and the cart, ropes, fuse, and matchstick being wood.

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Hi, I am totally new to 3D printing and want to have a printer. Budget is 400€. My background is computer science and programming and I want to be able to hack the device if I want but it should work fine OOTB (or with minimal effort). Which device would you guys suggest to me?

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Once you get a hotend that let's you do this you'll never want to go back.

This is a Phaetus Dragon HF hotend.

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This one has been on my list for awhile!

Printed to use as a cake topper for my upcoming son's birthday!

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