3DPrinting

For those of you running your printers from a Linux PC, what slicer software works for you? I switched from Windows to Kubuntu about 6 weeks ago. Had been using Orca for about 2 years, but the Linux version doesn't fully function for me. The build plate preview and functions are just a blank page. Trying to link a 3d printer causes Orca to crash. From comments online, there are plenty of people with the same issue and no resolution yet, using various Linux distros. So is anyone having luck with a slicer program using Linux, Wayland, and a nvidia graphics card?

Update 07Aug25: so far seen that Orca does not work with the latest versions of Kubuntu (25.04) nor Ubuntu (25.04). That's trying both flatpack and app image. Installed Mint Cinnamon 22.1 (based off Ubuntu 24.04), and Orca partly runs from a flatpack install. The build plate image and features do show up rather than a blank page, which is a start. Unfortunately trying to link my printer by IP address causes the software to crash after I click on the Device tab. Now Orca won't reopen without immediately freezing up, then crashing after about 20 seconds. I think I read about a workaround on Discord for this, need to find that discussion. Downloaded Prusa, just need to try that as well when I can get back to this. Cura refuses to connect to my printer at all so far. It's been revamped to align with Ultimaker printers, changed a lot from when I used it a couple years ago. I don't think it likes my Klipper setup. May work if I went back to stock Creality firmware, but I have no desire to do that.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKrDUnZCmQQ

What if your parts just fit—every single time—no matter what printer, material, or slicer settings you use?

In this video, we break down the proven design principles that eliminate the guesswork from tolerances in 3D printing. You’ll learn how to design press-fits, snap-fits, lids, and interlocking parts that are robust to shrinkage, color variation, and machine quirks. Rounded corners, chamfers, compliant features, and grip fins — we cover it all and show why designing for process is more reliable than tweaking slicer settings.

By the end, you’ll know exactly how to model your parts for perfect, repeatable fit — anywhere, anytime, on any printer.

I recently got a Centauri Carbon and didn't see a dedicated community on the Fediverse so I figured I would make one for anyone who is interested. https://lemmy.world/c/elegoo_centauri_carbon

So I've been noticing a few of my recent prints had some under extrusion around the z seam leaving indents that look like tearing. After basic troubleshooting I come to find that the issue is in the slicer. Could somone help me figure out what settings I need to change? Changing the z seam type doesn't really help, it just seems like cura is refusing to close the seam and would rather my prints have a fissor on them.

Hey, I've just got this device sv06+ ace, everything is great except one thing it doesn't display how much time left to print and shows how much time passed, quick search gave me nothing. Is there a way to display this information?

My Stealthburner started making a grinding sound when extruding. It's not the motor, but the gear attached to it. I cannot figure out how to stop it though. I've tried reseating it, adjusting the locking nut on the shaft, tightening, loosening. I'm hoping someone has an idea for me.

How do you decide what to print and what sites do you use to find free files? Im having a hard time finding 3d prints and the harder part is picking a file i like.

Abandoned printing a few years ago, getting back into it. I have several rolls of PLA and one ABS. The PLA rolls are brittle due to being stored in the open for years. I ran them through a dryer at 50c for 12 hours with no improvement. I've seen suggestions online for 55c so I'm trying that right now, but I imagine they're fucked.

Will more heat help or am I wasting my time?

Edit: another 10 hours at 55 did nothing, I'm abandoning the spool and trying the ABS at 65 for a full day. It wasn't brittle to start so I'll have to test print to know if it worked, but I'll post an update here for posterity.

Edit: ABS 65c for 24 hours. Clogged immediately. Didn't have a needle handy, so I took a Sim card removal tool and a lighter, heated it up for about 30 seconds and stuck it in the top of the hot end and let it cool, then yanked it out. Weird thing was there was still some pla left in the hot end, so it clogged early and pushed out nothing.

This looks awesome.

My first self created mold for a Chinese dragon soft plastic lure. Free on maker world. Like, comment, share and follow.

Got this pamphlet for a 3d printer and they're boasting "proprietary software!" on the flyer like it's a pro and not a con

I've been experimenting with foldable 3d prints for tall thin walls in some game organizers. (Bigger pictures below.) The principle here is sort of similar to a living hinge, but not designed to flex too many times. Just fold once and be a reasonably stable structure.

Here are some individual pictures of the designs I've made, for corner support of some game organizers. Below, I have explanation and the design/dimensions that I use.

Overview

I haven't seen this type of design too often before, so I thought I would share what design and dimensions worked for me. Here is an overview:

1. I design what I call the Wall as an outline, with some cutouts to reduce material. This is the part that prints flat and will fold up.

2. I apply a chamfer to all edges, to help with removal from the build plate.

3. I make a Y-Profile for the fold line grooves. The profile is vaguely Y-shaped, with a short rectangular base and an angled top. (Picture below; the Y-profile is labeled "cut out groove" there.)

4. I use the Y-profile to cut away material from the wall to make those grooves.

5. I print these in PLA (the pictures are matte PLA, because that's what I had). I guess PETG might be more sturdy, but honestly the PLA was so good that I haven't bothered with PETG.

Here is a picture, which I'll explain below.

Design Details

The top of this picture is an edge-on view of the wall (green horizontal lines) and the Y-shaped profile (labeled "cut out groove"). I use the following dimensions:

• wall thickness: 1.5mm
• wall chamfer (not pictured): .5mm
• Y-profile base height (a): 0.3mm
• thickness remaining below Y-profile (b): 0.4mm
• angle of Y-profile sides: 40 degrees from horizontal (45 didn't fold as well)
• Y-profile base width: (pi/2) x a x 1.1 (=.52mm with other dimensions above)

That last measurement, the width of the Y-profile base, is what the bottom part of the picture is about. The key idea is that width is going to be, roughly, 1/4 the circumference of a circle with radius a. So, I computed that amount, and multiplied by 1.1 to give 10% extra width.

With these dimensions, the part that folds is 0.4mm thick (dimension b in the pictures), then there is a 0.3mm clearance (dimension a), and the two arms of the "Y" fold together. In my first trials I used 45 degrees for the Y arms, but found that I got a better fold making them a little wider (so, lowering the angle from horizontal, to 40 degrees). This basically gives a little extra tolerance for variations in the physical print.

Conclusion

I hope this helps someone! I think it's a neat technique, and I'm a little surprised that I haven't seen it used anywhere else. I've seen various designs for living hinges, which are roughly the same principle, but designed to flex repeatedly. Searching around, I found one foldable cube on thingiverse. But otherwise I haven't found any models using this kind of design.

Much better! As you can see near perfect.

Before I go into any detail, let me please thank each and every person who commented on my last post. Reddit was my social media of choice way back when I first got this printer, and I recall having an issue then... And the advice on reddit was, nonexistent. within a few minutes of my post yesterday I had several thought out answers. And to my surprise, not one of them were simply "go buy x printer".

So once again thank you for being such a good community!

Now regarding the print.... The bed was cleaned with 99% IPA, I hadn't realized just how superficial a lot of the marks on the print bed were! Came up a treat with alcohol!

I modelled a print to basically stretch across almost the entire width of the print bed, so that I could do a few iterative tests quickly. Simply cleaning the bed definitely increase the adhesion.

Next I bumped up the temperature of both the print head and bed. 220, and 85 dropping to 75 after 10 or so layers. Now this seemed a fraction higher than I would be happy with, but you can't argue with results? And I did use a few different methods to double check the temperatures involved and they were relatively close.

More is a proof of concept at this point, i made a relatively dilute PVA solution and wiped it across the surface... Definitely overkill but by this point the print was adhering perfectly.

But I'd like to share with everyone here, a revelation. Using only cutting edge techniques, that is, my eyes.... I read the label on the side of the spool which quite clearly said PETG. Which might explain a little bit of my difficulty 😂

Thanks again to everyone in the community.

I'm trying to get back into 3d pruning after a long hiatus.

I found my old Anycubic Chiron, and thought I'd give it a go. Smaller prints seem fine. But anything longer than an hour. Come off like this. I say that what I mean is I excitedly take the multi hour print off the bed in excitement and for get to look at how it is.

The two longer prints definitely were at least in part still adhered to the print bed despite it being cold.

My next plan is to set a print away and check on it every hour or so and see if one side of the print has warped mid print (so far I've been printing before I go to bed, and only watching the initial couple of layers).

My guess it that the (pla+) filament is warping mid print... Its old I'll admit. But was stored in an airtight container with silica packs, and I dried it out before using. But any of your thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

i used blender 3.6 to create the Sage of sixth paths Shakujo. I have not printed at full size yet. to have a photo i printed a very tiny version of it and all was well accept i printed it so small that the supports broke one of the main body rods. hope you guys enjoy and print. lmk if anything needs changing/improvement.

The guys at Flow Battery Research Collective have been designing a Redox Flow Battery development kit that you can build yourself using a 3d printer and a few tools. It's a desktop size flow battery that you can use to either do your own research, e.g. on different electrolytes or just to replicate their experimental findings.

Redox Flow Batteries have the potential to become grid scale or home electric energy storage solutions that are way better for the environment than current lithium based batteries. They can often scale power and capacity independently and allow for repairs.

The FBRC project wants to spread the knowledge on RFBs and help kickstart a global community that develops sustainable energy storage technology in an ope source fashion.

Beware that the project is still in its infancy and sourcing the materials can be a bit of a challenge. Be sure to ask around in the forums for help!

Early studies show that 3D printers may leave behind similar toolmarks on repeated prints.

I just feel like 3d printing business are everywhere and that i would stand no chance. Im not even sure how to find prints, But i can still dream... right? I would possibly be better off getting a job.

Have you tried starting a 3d print business or is it more as a hobby or both?

I wanted to share this highly customized GameCube keyboard controller I built for use with Animal Crossing. Since the first AC game doesn't support keyboard input, I used a Pi Pico to listen for keypresses and send simulated analog stick movements to the game, automating typing in Animal Crossing at a tool-assisted speedrun level. It works a treat! I designed the keycaps in FreeCAD and printed them on a Bambu P1P with an AMS and two different colors of PLA. The code and design files are available for free on GitHub.

And a full build/demonstration video is available here (I ended up making it do a lot more than just typing) - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yw8Alf_lolA